Tag Archives | trip

Celebrating the women of India

By on June 1, 2011 in News/Events, Responsible Travel, Yoga/Spirituality
Photograph of Sri Mata Amritanandamaya Devi, Amma, The Hugging Saint of India

Sri Mata Amritanandamaya Devi

India, sexism and the media

On May 27, the Globe and Mail, Canada’s National Newspaper, ran an article by the paper’s India correspondent Stephanie Nolen entitled, Female face of power reflects change in India. The story is about how Nolen sees it is a paradox that five of India’s leading political power brokers are women. Nolen says, “…it is startling in the context of the intense discrimination against women and girls that permeates every aspect of life across class, communities and geography here.”

I find “sweeping, ethnocentric statements” like this depressing. Nothing against Nolen, who is a top-notch reporter and an excellent writer; and I realize that there’s lots of evidence to support this charge. Here’s my problem. This statement makes India sound like a bleak and dismal place, full of gloomy women chained to their stoves. It dismisses the MANY cheerful, accomplished, successful and outspoken women in India. It overlooks the strengths and advantages of traditional culture, such as strong family bonds. It’s written by a western reporter (from Canada), which makes it sound as if the west is free from sexism. It fails to understand the diversity, complexity and fluidity of India. And it reinforces the worst stereotypes about India.

It’s also not my experience. This is the reason I’m not working in mainstream media (though I have a degree in journalism). I don’t believe in so-called “objectivity” and I don’t want to write “sweeping, ethnocentric statements.” I like to write in a subjective genre — creative non-fiction or personal narrative — because I believe truth is in our subjective experience of life.

I am only a traveler, I have only spent about 14 months in India, but when I am there, I live in an Indian household. The women in that household are strong, expressive and, in my experience, rule the roost. I found the same to be true when I lived in Japan. Women have power, but it is largely private, not public. And I have met many strong, independent women all across India. So, in response to the statement that sexism permeates every aspect of life, I would like to celebrate the women of India. Continue Reading →

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Bundi Vilas: The perfect haveli hotel

By on April 26, 2011 in Destinations, India, Travel Tips
Photograph of Bundi Vilas, Bundi, Rajasthan, India - best hotel in Bundi

Dining on the rooftop terrace, under the shadow of Garh Palace

A very special place to stay in Bundi

I had great expectations for Bundi Vilas. It is the highest rated hotel in Bundi on Trip Advisor, Lonely Planet gives it an excellent write-up and I had met owner JP Sharma in Delhi — and knew him to be an intelligent, professional man with excellent taste and a deep-seated commitment to tourism in Rajasthan. I was not disappointed. From the moment I came out of the twisting narrow alley leading up to the heveli and saw the soaring archway that marks the entrance, I sensed something special. Again, my intuition and India’s magic led me to a very special treasure, the kind of accommodation that is itself a destination.

And, of course, it helps that Bundi Vilas is located deep in the heart of the old city of Bundi — a town filled with fascinating architecture, exquisite art, elaborate stepwells and an ambience that is reminiscent of medieval Europe. You can read about Bundi in my post, Bundi: Exquisite jewel needs polishing. Continue Reading →

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Bundi: Exquisite jewel needs polishing

By on April 23, 2011 in Destinations, India, Travel Tips
Photograph of Bundi Garh Palace, Bundi, Rajasthan, India

Bundi’s “goblin built” Garh Palace

Bundi’s shine is dulled by neglect — but magic is intact

Driving in to Bundi from the train station, through the flat, dusty unpromising outskirts, did nothing to portend charm, beauty or cultural significance. But then the road veered around a mountain and the valley bowl that holds the ancient town appeared. Nawal Sagar, the artificial lake, lay at the centre, dotted with shrines, covered in leaves, and surrounded by crumbling palaces and havelis. On the far side, an improbable gothic palace – made by goblins, according to Rudyard Kipling – hung from the far mountain, providing a dramatic backdrop, and a medieval fort ran across the top. I was instantly fascinated.

We drove right into the heart of the old town, parked, and began walking up a sloping, narrow lane. As the lane twisted and turned, and the walls and protruding, carved balconies of decaying havelis closed in around us, I got the distinct feeling that I had entered into an altered state – suddenly I was in medieval Europe, perhaps walking up a Venetian alley. Finally, the alley led up a ramp to a very, very high arch: the entrance to my hotel, Bundi Vilas. Read about this wonderful place Bundi Vilas: The perfect haveli hotel. Continue Reading →

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Looking for India’s tigers in Ranthambore

By on April 16, 2011 in Destinations, India, Responsible Travel
Photograph of spotted deer at Ranthambhore National Park and tiger reserve, Rajasthan, India

Spotted deer at Ranthambhore National Park and tiger reserve, Rajasthan, India

Tiger Tales: A species in danger

My first night at The Farm Villa, near Ranthambore National Park and tiger reserve, I pointed out the constellation Orion to owner-manager Satish Jain. The hunter was highly visible in the night sky over rural India, his belt of stars particularly bright. I told Satish that my father, Douglas, taught me about that constellation and I have associated it with him ever since — and especially since his death seven years ago.

The next night I walked out onto the rooftop terrace of The Farm Villa and, though the night was clear, Orion was nowhere to be seen. There was a hole in the sky, a hole that mirrors the hole in my heart, where I am missing my father. Likewise, there is a hole in Ranthambore since the March 1, 2011 death of legendary tiger protector Fateh Singh Rathore. And there is a hole in the effort to save India’s tigers from extinction. Though the 2010 census figures show an increase in the tiger population in India from 1,411 to 1,706 over the past four years, the habitat — and especially the all-important corridors — have decreased significantly. Tigers need a lot of land to hunt, roam, and mate, and without it, it is unlikely they will be able to survive and thrive in India. For an excellent article that captures the complexities and challenges of the situation facing India’s tigers, I recommend reading The failing fight to save India’s tigers by Stephanie Nolen of the Globe and Mail. For the rest of my story about visiting Ranthambore, read on. Continue Reading →

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Peaceful, authentic stay near Ranthambhore

By on April 7, 2011 in Destinations, India, Travel Tips
The Farm Villa, Sawai Madhopur, near Ranthambhore tiger park and reserve in Rajasthan

The Farm Villa, Sawai Madhopur

Best budget hotel in Ranthambhore

The Farm Villa in Sawai Madhopur, near Ranthambhore national park, Rajasthan, is peaceful, authentic, friendly and clean — and a unique budget accommodation option for exploring the area and visiting one of India’s most famous tiger reserves. It’s brand new and hasn’t been advertised or marketed as yet… so how did I find out about it?

From a friend of course, in typically Indian fashion. Here’s how it works: you tell your friends you want to go to Ranthambhore National Park to see a tiger and they immediately launch into helping you. Before you know it, you have an appointment with the director of Tiger Watch in Sawai Madhopur, to find out about the real tiger situation in Ranthambhore from someone who is on the ground — and you get an invitation to stay at a new guest house. Continue Reading →

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Arriving in India – for the fifth time

By on April 4, 2011 in Destinations, India
Photograph of Connaught Place, Delhi, India

The newly refurbished Connaught Place in central Delhi

Landing in Delhi: The old and the new

My fifth trip to India started, as they all do, at the Delhi airport. This time, though, I arrived at the new airport, which looks like any modern airport. I was almost missing the “old shed” – my nickname for the old airport – until I arranged for a prepaid taxi and was met with the usual chaos and confusion of finding my taxi, and the usual scenes of Delhi street life and traffic on the way to my “home” in South Delhi. My driver was caught behind an autorickshaw and when he finally pulled up beside the auto, my driver let out a stream of abuse at him in Hindi. Nothing really changes in India, though a lot of Delhi was improved and refurbished for the Commonwealth Games.

My first few days in India were spent reuniting with my Indian family, seeing some friends, experiencing synchronicity and suffering extreme jet lag. During those first days in Delhi, I also met India’s most highly esteemed Vedantic scholar / teacher, Swami Parathasathy, attended the National Tourism Awards and the Tiger Conference, shopped, had an Ayurvedic treatment and had tea at the Taj Mansingh Hotel with PR director Kirti. It was a busy week and I was dog-tired – but Delhi is such a happening place, it is hard not to get caught up. It’s the political centre of the country, of course, and a cultural hub. Mumbai may have New York-like frenetic energy, but there’s enough going on in Delhi to keep just about anyone very occupied indeed. And it’s so much more pleasant to be in Delhi this year, with all the construction of last year finished and the new metro system operating. Continue Reading →

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Flying to India on Qatar Airways

By on March 24, 2011 in News/Events, Travel Tips
Photograph of business class seat on Qatar Airways flight to India

My fabulous seat – a home-away-from-home – on Qatar Airways

Flying in comfort on my fifth trip to India

Everytime I travel to India, I have a completely different adventure and experience. I always learn something, I always change in a big way — but I never know ahead of time what’s going to happen, what I’m going to learn, or how I’m going to change. This time, my fifth trip in six years is no exception. In fact, moreso than ever before, I feel I have “beginner’s mind.” My itinerary is up in the air, I have no real idea of what I’m going to see or do or learn or accomplish, and I’m at a very new place in my relationship with India.

Good news for me — and perhaps a sign of things to come — my trip got off to a good start with a flight on Qatar Airways. I have never flown QA before, but many people told me they loved the airline, and had the best flights of their life on QA. Now I know why! Continue Reading →

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10 top reasons to visit India

By on February 15, 2011 in Destinations, India, Travel Tips
Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal, Agra, India 2006

Spicy food, ancient caves and the world’s most sublime building

[Note: Originally published on Bootsnall as 10 Reasons to visit India now.]

1. The Taj Mahal. Yup, it is. The world’s most beautiful building. This is one of those rare times in life when all of your expectations will be blown away, no matter how much hyperbole you’ve been exposed to about it; no matter how many pictures you’ve seen; no matter how much poetry you’ve read. Tagore had it right when he wrote the Taj Mahal is, “a teardrop on the face of eternity.” See it at sunrise, put up with Agra, do whatever you can, but make sure the Taj Mahal is on your itinerary or you will kick yourself for eternity. Continue Reading →

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Arrival in India: Trip number four

By on January 31, 2010 in Destinations, India
mandir in the park in South Delhi

mandir in the park, South Delhi

Coming home to India

I arrived in Delhi on January 29, 2010 to begin my fourth trip to India. This time, more than any other, it really felt like coming home. I woke up this morning to a soft breeze, sunshine, the smell of cooking spices coming from the kitchen and the melodious sounds of the vegetable sellers calling out as they bicycle through the neighbourhood. An early spring Sunday morning in Delhi is a delightful thing.

Continue Reading →

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Winter 2010 India trip itinerary

By on November 20, 2009 in News/Events

DSC_00642054

Fourth trip to India plans

I am starting now to plan my winter 2010 India trip itinerary. I will, of course, be actively blogging while I am in India from the end of January until about mid-April, so I hope you will subscribe. Also planning to add video to my blog this winter — they are so many colourful festivals, events, street scenes and other highly photogenic things going on in India at any given moment. I am already anticipating catching video of the Khajuraho Dance Festival, street scenes in Mumbai (Bombay) and Kolkata (Calcutta), the sunrise over the Himalayas in Darjeeling and who knows what else.

I am hoping to connect with Indian writers and bloggers while I am in India, so please send me an email, make a comment or tweet me at @breathedreamgo if you want to arrange a “tweet-up” — a meeting.

Continue Reading →

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