BreatheDreamGo » Mumbai

Top 6 photographs of Ganesh festival

Mariellen — Fri, 02 Sep 2011 17:12:46 +0000

Ganesh Chaturthi in Mumbai, India from Goindia.About.com

Happy birthday Ganesh!

He’s one of the most beloved gods in India; rotund, elephant-headed and multi-armed; the son of Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati — Ganesh is the first god honoured during pujas, and he is the bestower of luck and remover of obstacles.

In honour of Ganesh Chaturthi — the 10 days of birthday celebrations and worship — I am posting some of the best photos I have seen of the massive parade and the immersion of the clay Ganesh idols in the Arabian Sea off the coast of Mumbai.

The photo above is from the GoIndia.About.com site — which has a great guide to Ganesh Chaturthi — how the idols are made, where the best ones are located, etc. The editor, Sharell Cook, lives in Mumbai and stays on top of happenings there and in India in general. It’s a great resource for news, information and fascinating stories. Following are the other five top photos.

The photo below is by Sephi Bergerson, a travel and documentary photographer based in India. He is running a photo workshop in Mumbai for Ganesh Chaturthi (plus, he has other photo workshops on his site — such as Indian street food — that look equally interesting).
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The photo below comes from The First Post’s Pic of the Day page. An edited version of this pic is my Photo of the Week.

Ganesh Chaturthi in Mumbai, India from TheFirstPost.co.uk

These two photos, below, come from Boston.com’s The Big Picture feature. There are 36 eye-catching photos in total in this feature, which covers several exuberant and colourful Hindu festivals.

Ganesh Chaturthi in Mumbai, India from Boston.com

This photo, below comes from Digg Mumbai -- a site all about Mumbai, for Mumbaikers.

Ganesh Chaturthi in Mumbai, India from DiggMumbai.com

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Best bets for a weekend in Mumbai

Mariellen — Wed, 03 Aug 2011 22:17:56 +0000

Tiffin-wallahs, Churchgate Station, Mumbai

Mumbai is mesmerizing

Imagine New York and Hollywood rolled into one, set in the tropics and squeezed onto a peninsula several sizes too small. Mumbai (formerly known as Bombay) is one of the biggest and most densely packed cities on earth, India’s economic engine and the home of Bollywood, the glamour factory that makes more movies than anywhere else – more than twice as many as Hollywood. It buzzes, it never sleeps and don’t get in its way! Mumbai is on the move, and you better be too if you want to get on and off trains, cross the street, order food, shop or achieve any kind of success. For this city represents both the future, in the shape of the dreams of millions, and the past, in the streetscape of grand Victorian buildings.

What do you do with two days and two nights in Mumbai? Try these suggestions.

FRIDAY

Pool side, Taj Mahal Hotel, Mumbai

5 pm ~ SPLASH OUT WITH A LEGEND

According to legend, Jamsetji Tata was turned away by the leading British hotel in Bombay, so he built his own. And thus begins the larger-than-life story of the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Occupying the prime location in town, across from the Gateway of India, this iconic hotel has also occupied a place of prime significance in the social landscape of Mumbai since opening in 1903. The architects of independent India, stars, lovers, maharajas, tourists – many have been drawn to this illustrious landmark, including, of course, the terrorists who attacked it in November 2008. The hotel valiantly re-opened only days later, and has since undergone a complete renovation and reconstruction. From the aqua serenity of the Sea Lounge to the glamour of poolside dining, the hotel offers a dazzling array of food and ambience choices. You may never want to set foot outside. Rooms range from $250 CDN for a Superior Double to $3,600 for a Grande Luxury (not to mention the Presidential and Rajput suites). Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Apollo Bunder, Mumbai. (91) 22 6665 3366

7 pm ~ WATCH THE SUNSET SINK INTO THE ARABIAN SEA

Make use of prime sunset time to walk along Marine Drive from Nariman Point to Chowpatty Beach and watch the red-orange ball sink into the choppy waters of the Arabian Sea. At the end of the two-mile walk you will reach the circus atmosphere and food stalls of Chowpatty Beach: reward yourself by trying fragrant, spicy bhelpuri (less than $1), the ubiquitous street food of Mumbai; or stop by the iconic Cream Centre, a veg-only snack bar that’s been serving delicious puris, samosas (about $3) and sundaes (about $5) for more than 40 years. Fulchand Niwas 25/B Chowpatty Sea Face (22) 23679222 or 23679333.

Chowpatty Beach, Mumbai, at sunset

9:00 pm ~ SMALL PORTIONS, BIG FLAVOUR

India is home to one of the world’s great cuisines, and among the incredible richness and diversity of food available, Gujurati dishes are considered particularly delectable. At stalwart Samrat near Churchgate station, popular with foreigners and locals alike, you can get a Gujurati “thali” (thali means plate) overflowing with tiny portions of curried vegetables, dal, rice, puris, papad, chutneys, raita, dessert and other delicious concoctions, running the gamut of tastes from spicy to sweet (about $6 per person). And best of all, waiters continually top you up for no additional charge. Prem Court, J. Tata Road, Churchgate (22) 4213 5401

11:00 pm ~ DON THE QUEEN’S NECKLACE AT DOME

Take in the view of the Queen’s Necklace at night – the graceful curve of glittering lights along Marine Drive, by the edge of the Arabian Sea – and rub shoulders with the glitterati at Dome, the InterContinetal Hotel’s romantic rooftop lounge. A shot of Johnnie Walker Black Label – the standard drink of Indian men – will cost about $12, and a Kingfisher beer is $7. 135 Marine Drive, Colaba. Dome (91) 22 3987 9999.

SATURDAY

Leopold Cafe, Mumbai

9 am ~ BE IN A BOLLYWOOD FILM

If you dream of being an extra in a Bollywood film, have breakfast at Leopold’s and wait – like Lana Turner at Schwab’s – to be discovered. Leopold’s Café is a Mumbai institution, a well-worn path on the tourist trail, always packed with foreigners who seem to be willing to pay more than double what you would pay elsewhere. Casting agents stop by the café, and roam the nearby streets of Colaba, looking for foreigners to appear as extras in Bollywood films. Leopold’s has an extensive menu of Chinese, Thai, continental and Indian dishes. For breakfast have a masala omelette ($2), fruit salad with yoghurt ($3.50) and fresh mango juice (in season) for $3.50. Colaba Causeway, Bhagat Singh Road, Next To Regal Cinema, Colaba. (022) 22828185 or 22848054.

10:30 am ~ SLUM IT

The best way to get to know city is to take a tour with a local. Mumbai Magic has about 20 tours to choose from – or they can arrange a private tour. You can learn about the city’s cuisine, beach life, traditional dance and music; or you can take their signature tour, The Spirit of Dharavi. Dharavi is the so-called slum that was the setting for the hit film Slumdog Millionaire. People who have taken this tour are astounded by the activity and industry of Dharavi, whose economy is estimated to be worth US $ 500 million. Tours start at about $30 per person, and range from one to six hours. 1403/04, 14th Floor, Tower A Dosti Elite, Sion East Mumbai. Mobile 98677 07414 E-mail deepa@mumbaimagic.com.

Lovers on Bandra's bandstand, Mumbai

2 pm ~ DO THE BANDSTAND

After leaving Dharavi, take the train to nearby Bandra, a suburb of Mumbai known for chic bars, hip boutiques and historic churches. Start with lunch at Out of the Blue, a happening and relaxed hot spot famous for create-your-own sizzlers ($7), a wide range of pasta dishes ($5-10), fondues ($9-16) and dessert. Shop at the boutiques along Linking Road, walk the old district, where fish is still sold in carts by the side of road, and end your afternoon by walking along Bandstand to watch the sunset. This famous seawall promenade will take you past the heavily guarded home of “King Khan,” Shahrukh Khan, one of the biggest stars in Bollywood. Out of the Blue, Le Sutra Hotel, 14 Union Park, Khar West. (22) 26003000 or 9324839393.

9 pm ~ CRAB SHACK

Hole-in-the-wall Trishna, one of Mumbai’s trendiest eateries, has fed celebrities, Bollywood and Hollywood stars and world leaders – and they have the pictures to prove it. This tiny spot in high-end Kola Ghoda is famous for South Indian-style seafood: food reviewers call it “seafood heaven.” Their butter, pepper, garlic crab (price based on size) was recently named the best crab dish in the city – no mean feat, given the plethora of excellent seafood restaurants in Mumbai, a port city. Make a reservation in advance. Sai Baba Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort. (22) 2261 4991 or 2270 3213.

SUNDAY

9 am ~ GET LOST IN A BAZAAR

Mumbai is famous for its many teeming markets and bazaars. Head out early before the heat of the day rises and the crowds converge to explore, shop, eat and experience the other side of Mumbai – away from the well-heeled, leafy streets of Colaba. Walk north past the gothic colossus known as CST (Chhatrapadi Shivaji Terminus, formerly Victoria Terminus) and in 10 minutes you will reach Crawford Market. Look for the landmark, a Norman-Gothic tower at the corner of Lokmany Tilak Road and Dr DN Marg; and friezes by Lockwood Kipling, father of Rudyard, that depict peasants toiling in the field. Breakfast at Badshah, opposite Crawford Market, a century old juice bar famous for faloodas (milk drinks made from nuts, cream, rose syrup, kulfi and vermicelli strands), for about $1-2. 152 Lokmanya Tilak Road. (022) 3692025.

11:00 am ~ FERRY TO ELEPHANTA ISLAND

Ferries run from the Gateway of India to Elephanta Island every half hour. It’s a one-hour ferry ride that takes you a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of Mumbai. The rock-cut temples of Elephanta Island, dating from about 500 AD, are considered to be Mumbai’s premier tourist attraction. After a steep climb, you reach a series of caves containing impressive carvings that depict the legend of Shiva. A round-trip ferry ticket costs about 120 rupees (about $3) and entrance to the UNESCO World Heritage site is about 500 rupees (about $10).

3:30 pm ~ TEA AT THE SEA LOUNGE

Wind up your stay at the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, and your visit to Mumbai, with Asian Hi Tea in the Sea Lounge, an elegant room overlooking the ocean. It’s an institution among the elite families of Mumbai, who often use the room to introduce potential couples. Ask the maitre’d to point out the lucky loveseat: it is said that couples who meet there live happily ever after. Don’t miss the famous dessert trolley. Average cost for two is about $55.00.

NOTE: An edited version of this article was originally published in the Toronto Star newspaper as Mumbai Mesmerizes.

Marine Drive seawall, Mumbai, India

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South Asia travel plans for spring 2011

Mariellen — Tue, 22 Feb 2011 03:58:09 +0000

Moi at Kanyakumari, the southern tip of India, at sunrise 2006

Capturing the magic and mystery of travel in India

My first trip to India was a six-month odyssey in 2005-06 that took me from volunteering in Dharamsala in the north to watching the sunrise from Kanyakumari at the southern tip of the subcontinent. It was a life-changing trip, and I have been writing about India and the transformative power of travel ever since. Since then, I’ve been back to India three times (2007, 2009 and 2010), and shortly I will be leaving for my fifth trip. I will of course be blogging as I travel. My itinerary is below, but first a few words about my philosophy and mission.

Travel writer’s manifesto

There are many benefits to writing or blogging about one subject or place. For one thing, you gain a lot of knowledge and you are perceived as having expertise. For another, you develop contacts and build relationships. In my case, I write about India, South Asia, yoga, spirituality and transformative travel. From a strategic point of view, this is my niche. But I don’t write about these things for strategic reasons; I write about them because of genuine interest and pure passion.

Traveling in India really did change my life in many positive ways, and I have grown to truly, madly, deeply appreciate India, Indians and Indian culture, including yoga. For me, traveling to India in particular, and Asia in general, is not like going other places. I feel a profound sense of connection to that part of the world, and I tend to have charmed adventures.

For more than a year altogether I have traveled in India, mostly by myself, and I have been protected — like Rudyard Kipling’s Kim. I am extremely grateful. I don’t take it for granted and I don’t really understand it. I believe life is mystery, and that’s how it should be.

And like Kim, I move between cultures with a somewhat fluid sense of identity: I live some of the time as an Indian, with my Indian family in Delhi, and some of it on the road, where I am perceived as a foreigner. But India doesn’t feel all that foreign to me. I feel happier, more alive, and more connected to my imagination when I am in India than anywhere else.

So I write about India and I try and capture the magic and mystery I feel and perceive — that child-like sense of wonder that’s so easy to lose as we grow older — and the feeling I always get in India: that life is not always how it seems, that there is a mythical element underlying life, and we are lucky when we get an occasional glimpse.

So, keeping these principles in mind, I am planning my next trip — which includes visiting a Maharaja, stalking tigers, seeing the Taj Mahal at sunrise, and achieving a long-held dream: hiking in the Himalyan kingdom of Bhutan.

Lake Pichola, Udaipur, India

My itinerary for 2011

March

Delhi
Gujurat and Rajkot – for Mahatma Gandhi-related sites and a visit to the estates of the Maharaja of Rajkot
Mumbai
Bandhavgarh and Kanha Tiger Reserves

April

Bhutan
Rishikesh
Rural tourism in Uttrakhand
Delhi

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The Taj Mahal of hotels

Mariellen — Thu, 17 Feb 2011 21:20:11 +0000

Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Mumbai, India

My love affair with the Taj Group

Many of the 66 hotels, palaces and resorts owned and managed by The Taj Group hold a special place in India’s cities. In some cases, they are linked with the city’s, and even the country’s, history. I don’t usually stay in the Taj Group hotels when I travel, but I often visit them for tea or lunch or just to have a few minutes of luxurious calm. I also have an interest in their historical and social significance, and their business practices. I have learned from interviewing staff members at several of their properties that Taj Group has one of the best training programs in the hospitality industry in India; and my experience is that the staff seem like extremely dedicated professionals. It is not only the buildings and decor that are stupendous — the service and food is excellent too.

Read on to find out about the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel in Mumbai, Taj West End Hotel in Bangalore, Taj Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur and the Taj Palace Hotel in Delhi — and to see some glorious photos of these incredible places.

Why the Taj Mahal hotel reminds me of the Titanic

Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Mumbai, India

The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel in Mumbai (Bombay) reminds me of the Titanic. It is huge, impressive, luxurious, Edwardian, world famous and it suffered an unbelievable tragedy. The difference is, of course, that the Titanic rests at the bottom of the ocean and the Taj Mahal Place Hotel has risen like a phoenix from the ashes. Partially destroyed during the Mumbai attacks of November 2008, the hotel has been under construction for the last two years. It is now completely open.

There are few hotels in the world that equal the iconic status of the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Legend has it that Indian industrialist J.R.D. Tata built it because he wasn’t allowed in the city’s leading British hotel. Since opening in 1903, the Taj has held both the pre-eminent social and geographical position in the city. When terrorists attacked Mumbai in November 2008, they headed straight for the Taj Hotel – knowing they were hitting a powerful symbol of Indian pride. The world watched spellbound as flames leaped from the windows of the grand building during the three-day siege.

Grand staircase, Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Mumbai

I toured the hotel last winter (February 2010) when most of the public spaces were complete (only the rooms in the Palace wing were unfinished at that time) and wrote about it in my post Meeting Maximum Mumbai. I had long wanted to visit this hotel, and to see it recover from tragedy and destruction has only increased my fascination with this landmark.

Over the week I was in Mumbai, I ate lunch at the hotel three times. Three times I escaped the bustle of the city to relax in the hotel’s luxurious interior and soak up the historic vibes. Once, I had lunch at Souk with Nikhila from the public relations team; once at the legendary Sea Lounge with Syerah, a friend from Toronto in and once by myself in the gracious poolside courtyard. Nikhila gave me a tour of the hotel and at the end, we stopped at the tasteful memorial to the people who died during the attack. It was a bittersweet moment: I was sad of course, and also bolstered by the Taj’s determination to regroup, recover, renovate and refuse to be bullied or cowed by cowardly acts of brutal terrorism.

The lush, green lungs of Bangalore

Taj Mahal West End Hotel, Bangalore, India

The Taj West End is, likewise, an institution in Bangalore. I visited in February 2010, and spent a wonderful afternoon eating lunch on the lawn and touring 20 acres of gardens and greenery. You can read about my visit in my blog The passionate people of Bangalore. The Taj West End’s green space is becoming an increasingly precious and important commodity as Bangalore expands and industrializes, and morphs from a small city known for gardens into a megalopolis known for being a world leader in Information Technology.

Tamarind gola at the Taj West End Hotel

When I suggested to my host, Benjamine Oberoi of the lovely – and comparatively modest – Casa Cottage, that she accompany me for lunch, she jumped at the chance. She knew I was touring Bangalore’s most important sites, and she said I absolutely had to go to the Taj West End. Not only is the hotel an iconic presence in the city – it is where she and her husband Bhushan courted 20 years ago.

I loved the quiet grace and luxurious foliage of the Taj West End and we had a delightful afternoon. I was impressed with the food, the grounds and especially the staff. They are very proud of the hotel and uphold very high standards of elegance, service, hospitality and food. At lunch I ate an India vegetarian feast, composed of small, spicy dishes. The highlight was Tamarind gola, a palate-cleansing sorbet that tasted like tamarind and was served in a dry ice.

On our tour of the grounds, I glimpsed two women doing yoga on the lawn, a herb and vegetable garden, several deep-blue swimming pools and a romantic outdoor restaurant, with some private seating areas swathed in gauzy curtains.

I learned that the Taj West End was the first hotel in Bangalore – it started as a rooming house – and that Dame Peggy Ashcroft stayed there when she played Mrs. Moore in the classic film A Passage to India. I would love to visit again, and can only hope the grounds are never developed. Bangalore needs the oxygen.

Tea and fantasy

Tea tray at the Taj Palace Hotel, Delhi

Delhi boasts two Taj Group hotels, but I am only familiar with the Taj Palace Hotel. I went there to have tea on my way to a nearby concert last year. My friend’s family supplied the bricks for this hotel when it was built, many years ago – so it has some personal connections. The Taj Palace is located in the diplomatic area of Delhi, on about six acres – it has a spacious feeling that only Delhi, of all India’s big cities, seems to afford. Many heads of state stay here (or at the nearby Maurya). I took a peek at several of the restaurants, but I was very happy with the tea lounge – they really do offer a wide array of teas as well as treats – and you can sit indoors, in slightly whimsical/fantasy surroundings, or outside by the lawns and pool. Very civilized.

Taj Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur, Rajasthan, India

I wish I could say I visited the Taj Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur, which is probably the world’s most photographed hotel, and one of the most famous — but when I was there, I had an uncharacteristic attack of fiscal responsibility and balked at paying 2,500 rupees (about $60 CDN) for the privilege of boating out to the hotel for lunch. Sigh. However, I stayed at a lakeside inn, and had a very nice view of the hotel from my room. One evening after dark, I had just returned to my room when the sky above the Taj Lake Palace hotel and Pichola Lake was lit up by an impressive and lengthy (half-hour!) display of fireworks. By a lucky coincidence, my window seemed to perfectly frame the display, as if it was purposefully arranged to accentuate the fantasy-like surroundings and the magic of India. This is why I keep going back.

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Photo of the Week: Ganesh Chaturthi

Mariellen — Fri, 17 Sep 2010 02:46:48 +0000

Ganesh Chaturthi in Mumbai, India

Ganesh Chaturthi takes place every year in late August or early September. It is the birthday of the popular Hindu elephant-headed god, son of Shiva and Parvati. This festival is celebrated all over India, but especially so in Mumbai where grand processions bear huge idols to the sea for immersion. Ganesh is the bestower of luck, the remover of obstacles and the god of safe travels. I always carry a small Ganesh charm with me while I travel in India.

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Autorickshaw ride in Mumbai

Mariellen — Fri, 18 Jun 2010 14:23:12 +0000

This video marks the start of a new feature on BreatheDreamGo: Video Friday. Every Friday I will upload a video from my travels in India (or other entertaining videos I come across).

I took this video after getting into an autorickshaw at Bandra train station in Mumbai. Look for the near collision at 1:42!

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Meeting maximum Mumbai

Mariellen — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 06:37:04 +0000

Chowpatty Beach, Mumbai, at sunset

I arrived in Mumbai (Bombay) badly. I bought a ticket in Goa for an overnight “luxury” bus from Madgao to Bandra, leaving at 8 pm. Instead, I was bussed from Madgao to Panjim, shifted to a dirty, run-down bus that left at 10 pm and told the bus would not stop at Bandra after all. No explanation given.

at Churchgate station

The only reason I decided to take an overnight bus – and not a train – was because it was going directly to Bandra, my destination in Mumbai. When this advantage was removed all the disadvantages of overnight bus travel seemed exaggerated and very hard to bear: a tiny, rather horrible sleeper that featured tattered- filthy curtains and a sticky wall; being tossed and jolted all night; and stops at the worst bathrooms I have yet experienced in India. And to make matters worse, the bus did not stop at a restroom until 4:30 am (it had earlier stopped by the side of the road so the men could relieve themselves). By that time several of us ladies on the bus were ready to burst in more ways than one.

The whole thing was a travel nightmare. I felt angry at being fleeced by an obviously well-oiled machine. This is one of the reasons I tend to stay away from “traveler’s haunts” (commercial and touristy spots that attract the backpacking crowd). They seem to breed this kind of unscrupulous activity designed to dupe foreigners and part them from their rupees. (One weary-looking English couple said they had taken lots of buses in India and they were used to it. But this is not the kind of thing I am interested in getting used to. I know better. I know service in India can be a lot better and lots of Indians would not put up with being treated like so much baggage. From now on, I take the train – the Shatabdis and Rajdhanis – or I fly. I just cannot stand being targeted as a dupe because I am a foreigner in India. Okay, I will get down off my soapbox and arrive in Mumbai.)

I was lucky to catch "tiffin wallahs" at Churchgate station

So, two hours later than scheduled, I arrived in Mumbai feeling tired and unkempt and in sore need of food and shower. I found both at the spotless apartment of my friend Jasmine’s gracious Mother, one of the loveliest ladies I have ever met. Jasmine and her Mother and their live-in helper Kumari made me a welcome guest in their home for the next week, without giving any hint or sign that I was causing inconvenience, though I know I must have as the apartment is small; and my rice-based vegetarian diet required a change in menu.

Jasmine, Mrs. D'Costa and Kumari

(NOTE: My host Jasmine is the writer Jasmine D’Costa whose wonderful book of short stories, Curry is Thicker than Water, was just released in India. It has been available in Canada for some time. I highly recommend this exceptionally well-written book, especially for people interested in Indian culture. It would also make a great gift.)

These charming people demonstrated the hospitality that India is famous for and that lives up to the “athiti devo bhawa” (guest is god) slogan that the Indian government is promoting. It’s the flip side of the bus scam in Goa. And so my week in Mumbai started, in Bandra, an area known as “the queen of the suburbs.” Once a quaint fishing village, Bandra has grown up to house some of the city’s most illustrious residents, such as Bollywood superstar (and hottie) Shahrukh Khan.

Bandstand, Bandra just before sunset

On my first evening in Mumbai, Jasmine and I took an autorickshaw a relatively short distance to Bandstand, the western rim of Bandra that runs along the Arabian Sea. We walked the Bandstand promenade, along with other Mumbaikers and food sellers, and watched the orange-red ball of the sun drop into the sea, passing Shahrukh’s heavily fortified house along the way.

I had finally arrived in Mumbai, a city I had long wanted to visit, but had always found intimidatingly expensive and socially forbidding. Mumbai has always struck me as the kind of city that opens up to you if you are rich, famous or part of the in crowd. It never appealed to me to go there alone, especially because decent affordable accommodation is even harder to find than in Delhi. Which is saying a lot. So I am very grateful to Jasmine and her Mother for housing me and giving me a safe, comfortable home to live in as I experienced Mumbai for the first time.

Bandra street scene

I especially enjoyed staying in Bandra, which is nowadays considered one of the prime areas of Mumbai. Real estate prices are said to be astronomical and the area’s appeal is obvious: it is charming and well-located, with only the fabulous and fast-moving new Sea Link causeway between it and south Mumbai. I spent about a day-and-a-half in total exploring Bandra, from the sea front drives such as Bandstand and Carter Road to Chembai, where the remains of the original fishing village can be detected, to shopping on Hill Road and Linking Road. I found chic cafes, excellent bookstores and modern holistic spas; as well as road-side fish stalls, 500-year-old Catholic churches and old bungalows – though most of these have been sold to developers who are throwing up high-end apartment blocks and fancy condominiums as fast as they can.

(I am writing this on the train from Mumbai to Aurangabad, and outside the window the mauve tinged dusk is proving a backdrop to strange dark mountains with odd shaped peaks.)

flower seller in Bandra

My first full day in Mumbai I took the train into town, from Bandra station to Churchgate, the terminus of the line. I was very relieved, and pleased, to discover that first class bogies (cars) are provided for Ladies only. The other bogies were packed with men, and I would probably not feel safe or comfortable traveling in them. I also noticed, on some trains, bogies for handicapped people, cancer patients and senior citizens. Apparently, the municipal government in Mumbai is well aware of the hazards of local train travel due to the intense crush of the populace. To say Mumbai is over-crowded seems like a banal commonplace, but it is my overwhelming impression of the city. Even in Delhi and Bangalore I have never felt so crammed and crowded in by people.

People are everywhere, and most of them in a hurry. Mumbai is a city in a hurry. It has a buzz, in the way New York City buzzes. Things happen here and people are in a hurry – to survive, to make money, to achieve their ambition, to become famous or perhaps simply to get home. There is a dog-eat-dog quality to Mumbai that I have never felt so intensely elsewhere in India. People are out for number one. I never felt unsafe; but I never felt safe either.

the view from Mahalaxmi Temple out to the sea

In all the many months I have traveled in India, I have never experienced an “incident,” but I am sad to say that I did in Mumbai. On the Sunday I was there, I went to Mahalaxmi Temple to give thanks for the abundance in my life and while I was crushed in with a crowd of women in the temple, several of them “swarmed” me and tried to grab at my purse. I grabbed and pulled back, but they made off with my phone. Unfortunately I never noticed the phone was missing until sometime later. It was just a cheap phone that I only use in India, but it is a lifeline, a link to my friends and family, and I feel less safe without it. Also, many people have this number and may be trying to call me!

So that’s the bad news. The good news is that I loved seeing all the old colonial buildings and appreciated being able to get to the seaside, to clear my head, and fell some expansion of my psyche. One day, I walked all along Marine Drive, from Nariman Point to Chowpatty Beach, arriving just before sunset. It was great to walk unimpeded for several kilometres along the coast, and see the families at Chowpatty Beach eating Mumbai’s famous street food and enjoying themselves.

The Gateway of India

Also really enjoyed having my picture taken at the Gateway to India and having lunch at the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. I have wanted to visit this iconic hotel for many years, long before I saw it under attack in November 2008. Nikhila, the PR Manager, hosted me, and took me on a tour and we had a great talk about the significance and symbolism of this hotel. It really does occupy a special place in the hearts of Mumbaikers, and to see it under attack must have hit people very hard.

repair and upgrade work is still underway at the Taj Hotel

There are so many legends about this hotel, from its founding by JR Tata in 1903: he built it because he was turned away from the British-run Grand Hotel, the pre-eminent hotel in Bombay at that time. Indians were not allowed in as guests – only as employees. So it stands, among other things, as a symbol of Indian pride and independence. Nikhila showed me all the many restaurants, each outdoing the last in magnificence. The Taj Group, which owns the hotel, decided to upgrade while repairing damage to the hotel after the attack. Much of it has re-opened – in fact, the hotel made a huge effort to re-open 21 days after the attack to demonstrate the city’s resilience and unwillingness to let the terrorist’s win – but the hotel rooms in the original building are still closed.

Memorial at Taj Hotel

The most moving part of the tour was the final stop, when Nikhila showed me the very tasteful and under-stated memorial to the 31 people, staff and guests, who lost their lives during the attack. It is simply a list of their names carved into marble in a quiet outdoor atrium near the lobby. Seating is placed nearby for contemplation and the only decoration is a wrought-iron “tree of life,” which, in spite of holding a prominent place in the staircase of the old building, miraculously escaped damage during the attack. The hotel placed the sculpture beside the memorial as a symbol of the resilience of the human spirit. I felt very moved, and Nikhila and I spent a quiet moment there. From there I went out to join the crowds milling around the Gateway to India.

I have seen this famous arch in so many photographs and it was exciting to finally be standing in front of it. Lots of other people obviosuly feel the same way as both foreigners and Indians congregate here in happy groups to have their pictures taken. The Gateway is one of those special places in India that seems to span modern Indian history and symbolize both the British Raj and independent India.

Classic scene: maidan, cricket, clock tower

So much of Bombay (and Delhi and Calcutta) is a mix of the British colonial past and the resurgence of modern independent India. There are so many gorgeous old crumbling colonial buildings, English place names and traditons thrown into the city’s pulsating culture.

I will write more about some of the places I visited in a separate post. They include the areas Churchgate and Colaba; the Banganga Tank and Hanging Gardens in Malabar Hill; Mahalaxmi Temple (where I was “swarmed” and had my phone stolen while I was thanking the goddess for the abundance in my life), Nariman Point, Chowpatty beach, Bandra and Lower Parel.

restored stairway at Taj

I thought about touring Dharavi, the slum area made famous by the film Slumdog Millionaire, but I just didn’t feel sure about whether to go or not. Also, the tour was very expensive at 2,000 rupees. Which seems ironic.

Maybe next time. I am sure I will be back in Mumbai. I met an editor with a publishing company there, so I hope to do some writing for them. A lot happens in Mumbai; it is the economic engine of the country. And while I appreciate the city, I felt quite battered by the crowds and fast pace; and felt coated with humid grime by the end of each day. In the end, I think Delhi suits me much more.

women on Marine Drive walkway

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My India list

Mariellen — Tue, 08 Sep 2009 02:44:43 +0000

My India list: top places, events and festivals I want to see

I believe in magic. How else can you explain that the more I travel in India, the longer the list of places I want to go gets?! I was inspired to write this list by Mighty Girl’s Mighty Life List, so here goes. Here’s my list at the time of this writing (and I am sure I am missing several things …):

Top 10

see sunrise over the Himalayas from Tiger Hill, near Darjeeling
watch the start of the monsoon in Trivandrum
attend the Pushkar Camel Festival
climb Mount Arunachala
see a tiger! — perhaps in Kanha National Park, the place that inspired Kipling to write Jungle Book
watch Indian classical dance at sunset in front of the temples during the Khajuraho Dance Festival
stay in tea gardens in Darjeeling, Assam and the Nilgiri Hills
have tea at the Taj Mahal Hotel in Mumbai
stay at the Tollygunge Club in Kolkata and watch the Kali Puja
go on Char Dham pilgrimage to source of the Ganga (Ganges River)

And the list continues …

be in Jaisalmer for the Desert Festival
visit Gandh’s ashrams: Sabarmati and Sevagram
take part in Ganesh Chaturthi in Mumbai
see the Brahmaputra River in Assam
visit the Ellora and Ajanta Caves
hike in Ladakh
be in Mathura for Janmashtami
take a boat cruise through the Sunderbans
join the Chariot Festival in Puri
hike in Sikkim
stay at Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur
see the Republic Day Parade in Delhi
~~spend some time writing in Bundi, where Kipling wrote~~
undertake 10-day Vipassana retreat near Jaipur
brief stop in the world’s wettest place, Cherapungi
see Dal Lake, Srinagar
stay at a spice garden in Kerala
visit the spice market in Old Delhi
finally go to Akshardham in Delhi
see the sun set and the moon rise at Kanyakumari (happens only two days per year)
attend Jaipur Literature Festival

Thank you for reading. Please visit BreatheDreamGo or stop by my Facebook page at Breathedreamgo.

Indian summer: 11 reasons to visit India in the summer

Mariellen — Tue, 21 Jul 2009 16:45:54 +0000

Published on The Matador Network, August 2009.

Photo courtesy of Jehangir Pocha

Indian summer

While the majority of foreign tourists travel to India in the winter, there are some who like it hot! India is a popular summer destination for European vacationers, monsoon lovers and travelers who like to swim against the stream. There are lots of good reasons for visiting India in the summer, including the profusion of summer festivals, breathtaking summer-only destinations in the Himalayas, un-crowded tourist attractions, cheaper airfares and slashed rates at many hotels and resorts.

Here are 11 things you can only do in the summer in India:

1. Eat mangoes. Early summer, before the monsoon arrives, is the hottest time of year in India. The only relief comes in the form of a sweet and succulent fruit, welcomed and revered from one end of the country to the other. In India, the mango is the “king of fruit.” Mangoes begin to trickle into markets and restaurants in April and by June the streets are full of people savouring their “utterly overpowering lusciousness,” as one mango lover said. While there are many varieties, the Alphonso is hailed as the “king of kings,” and its seasonal appearance makes the news.

2. Hike in Ladakh. In winter, the Ladakh region of India’s remote northern state is a cold, lonely and forbidding mountain kingdom. But come summer, flowers bloom and the tourists return to admire the barren, lunar-like landscapes and traditional Indian, Tibetan and Central Asian cultures. Hikers flock to Leh, the region’s capital, for some of the best treks in India. Even those with less physically ambitious goals will enjoy hiking up to the palace and royal monastery, Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, in the centre of Leh, to watch the sunrise over the Himalayas. The season’s short, though, and by mid-September it’s all over for another year.

3. Chill at a hill station. During the reign of the British Raj, the colonial rulers retreated to hill stations to escape the incendiary heat of the plains. Shimla, in the modern state of Himachal Pradesh, was the “Queen of Hill Stations.” It was from this small mountain-top town that the British ruled fully one-fifth of humanity. Today, visitors to Shimla enjoy the laid-back holiday vibe, Raj-era buildings – including the baronial Viceregal Lodge – and spectacular views of the Himalayas from the The Mall, a ridge-top pedestrian-only thoroughfare that was once off-limits to Indians. Don’t miss high tea at the elegant, century-old Oberoi Cecil Hotel. Shimla is a taste of “ye olde England” in the Himalayas.

4. Sing in the rain. Monsoon is a very special time of year in India. The summer rains bring welcome relief from the scorching heat of early summer and they are a symbol of fertility, vigour and joyful abandon. Bollywood movie watchers know that when rain showers soak the hero and heroine, it’s shorthand for the lovemaking they can’t show on screen. The southwest monsoon is expected to arrive in the southern state of Kerala each year on June 1, and it spends the next few months sweeping north across the subcontinent, lightening the hearts of farmers, children, lovers and just about everyone else. Tourists, too, enjoy the lush freshness, cooling downpours and relaxation-inducing vibes the monsoon brings.

5. Experience bliss. Summer monsoon season is the best time for Ayurvedic treatment in India. Ayurveda, which means “science of life,” is the ancient system of traditional Indian health care that seeks to restore health through the use of diet, herbs, lifestyle advice, cleansing techniques and, primarily, bliss-inducing oil massages. The languid dampness opens the pores and makes the body more receptive to the medicated oils. Kerala, in southern India, is a tropical paradise on the Arabian Sea, and the best place for Ayurvedic treatment in India. Ayurvedic resorts, from the rustic to the luxurious, line the shores between white sand beaches and palm tree forests and offer a relaxing vacation as well as authentic treatments.

6. Find the source of the Ganges. The Ganges River – known in India as Ganga Mata – is the lifeline of the country and its most sacred river. One-in-ten people on earth depend on its bounty for their livelihood. It cascades out of the high Himalayas in northern India, and finding its source – or sources – is a major pilgrimage activity every summer after the snows melt and the roads and villages become accessible (April to November). The pilgrimage is called Char Dham, which means four sacred places, and bus tours from Rishikesh in Uttaranchal state can take you to all four: Badrinath, Kedarnath, Yamunotri and Gangotri.

7. Get soaked with Ganesh. One of the biggest festivals in Maharashtra state takes place at the end of summer. It’s called Ganesh Chaturthi, and while it’s celebrated throughout India, no one does it quite like Mumbai. For 10 days, Mumbaikers celebrate by holding cultural and social programs, eating sweets and worshipping the popular elephant-headed god. On the 11th day, his birthday, an enormous clay figure of Ganesh is paraded through the streets of Mumbai before being immersed in the Arabian Sea. The main parade, to Chowpatty Beach, is accompanied by thousands of celebrants dancing and singing in the streets. All are welcome to join the fun.

8. Sip tea in Darjeeling. A popular hill station perched high up in the Himalayas, on the northern edge of West Bengal, Darjeeling also gives its name to the world’s best tea. In the 19th century, Darjeeling was THE summer destination for the British in Calcutta (then the capital of colonial India). Though Darjeeling is lashed by the summer monsoon, it still offers an escape from the heat of lower-lying regions. Tourists enjoy the Victorian-era holiday atmosphere, spectacular views of some of the world’s highest mountains, tours to surrounding tea gardens and Tibetan culture. Take the poignantly slow Toy Train from Siliguri and you will find yourself in tune with Darjeeling’s timeless appeal.

9. Run with the chariots. The mid-summer Chariot Festival in Puri, Orissa, attracts millions of devotees and tourists each year, who take part in an enormous procession as three mammoth, dazzling wood chariots are pulled through the streets. It’s one of the biggest festivals in India – so big, it inspired a word that means “massive, inexorable force.” The word juggernaut was coined after 19th century British spectators saw people, mad with devotion, throw themselves under the giant wheels of the Lord Jagannath’s chariot. The splendour and grandeur of this spectacle is unforgettable.

10. Watch snake boats compete. The Onam Festival of late August celebrates the tropical southern state’s rich cultural heritage during a glorious time of year when everything seems fresh and radiant. During the 10-day festival, Kerala puts on a showy display of games and sports, traditional art forms, drama and classical music. There’s also shopping at the many festival bazaars that spring up and a Grand Feast. But the highlight is the Nehru Trophy Snake Boar Race, the biggest snake boat race in the world. This immensely popular festival, held to coincide with Kerala Tourist Week, attracts people from all over the globe.

Krishna

11. Celebrate Krishna’s birthday. Blue-skinned Krishna is one of Hinduism’s most important and beloved gods. He can be depicted as a cherubic baby, flute-playing lad, devoted lover – alongside his consort Radha – or as Arjun’s charioteer during the epic battle of the Mahabharata (the basis of the Hindu bible, the Bhagvad Gita). Inspiring fervent devotion among his followers, his mid-summer birthday (this year on August 14) is called Janmashtami. It is celebrated all across the country, but nowhere more so than in his birthplace, Mathura, Uttar Pradesh. The fun includes rituals, feasting, devotional singing, plays that depicts scenes from his action-packed life and human pyramids – formed to reach a high-hanging pot of butter, Krishna’s weakness.

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Top 10 books on India (thus far)

Mariellen — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 21:08:01 +0000

Just before the news broke about the terror attacks in Mumbai, I was going to write about my favourite Indian books and books about India. Ironically, one of my top picks is Maximum City by Suketu Mehta, an incredibly well-researched and well-written book about Bombay. Having recently read that book, I felt much more in-the-know about the city, and especially the local politics. Which are very tricky.

So, here are some of my favourite books on India, about India, by Indians …

1. Maximum City by Suketu Mehta. He’s like a cross between Charles Dickens and The New York Times. He’s a great investigative reporter, but his real strength is in telling a story and making the characters come alive. If you have any interest at all in Bombay / Mumbai, read this book.

2. Freedom at Midnight by Larry Collins and Dominique Lapierre. This was the book that got me started, way back when. It is essential reading for understanding the current conflicts between India and Pakistan, and it will give you a lot of background and insight behind the independence movement in India, partition, colonialism, the creation of the world’s largest democracy and Mahatma Gandhi’s role in the whole thing.

3. City of Djinns by William Dalrymple. He does for Delhi what Mehta does for Bombay. And while Delhi and Bombay are very different cities, so are these books. Dalrymple’s emphasis is the history of Delhi — which must be one of the wrold’s most historical cities. But he weaves in scenes from his own year in Delhi, which are often hilarious. I am determined to find out if the International Backside taxi stand really exists. I’m going to look for it (behind the International Centre, naturally) next time I’m in Delhi.

4. Out of India by Ruth Prawer Jhabvala. You may know her name as the screenwriting partner behind many wonderful Merchant-Ivory films. She was a European who married an Indian architect and lived the rest of her life in Delhi. The introduction to these short stories — in which she presents herself as a foreigner living indolently in India — is one of the most well-written pieces I have ever read. She nails the cultural divide, which I experience on a daily basis. She’s one of my favourite writers, anytime, anywhere.

5. My Experiments with Truth by M.K. Gandhi. For my money, this ranks with Memories, Dreams and Reflections by Carl Jung as a truly honest and interesting autobiography. The title says it all, and says so much about a man who just seems to be made of different stuff than you or me.

6. The Ramayana by R.K. Narayan. If you want to understand the heart and soul of Hindu India, you have to read the Ramayana and the Mahabharat. R.K. Narayan wrote abridged versions of both of these epics (the Mahabharat is, I believe, the longest book ever written).

7. Midnight’s Children by Salman Rushdie. It was years ago when I read it, and I don’t even own a copy, but it really left an impression on me. It is the fictional version of Freedom at Midnight. If you don’t know, India was granted independence from British colonial rule at the stroke of midnight on August 15, 1947. Nehru gave his famous “tryst with destiny” speech from the Red Fort in Delhi and the rest is history. This book is about a man born in India at the exact moment of independence.

8. Empire of the Soul by Paul William Roberts. PWR was just another youthful seeker backpacking around the subcontinent in the 1970s. The difference is a) India really got under his skin and he had some amazing spiritual experiences and b) he can write. He has his own style, which I know for a fact has made a tremendous impression on at least one blogger. (Hint: she’s on my blogroll.)

9. Chasing the Monsoon by Alexander Frater. Like Dalrymple, Frater is an English journalist with a passion for India. (Actually, neither Dalrymple nor Frater was born in England … I just mean they are of English or British heritage …) The documentary based on this book, same title, stands as my all-time favourite documentary. Frater goes on a sometimes profound and sometimes whimsical journey to follow India’s monsoon to the wettest place on earth, Cherrapungi in the Indian state of Meghalaya.

10. What the Body Remembers by Shauna Singh. The partition of India in 1947 led to the greatest mass movement of people in history as millions of Muslims left India to move to newly created Pakistan; and millions of Hindus and Sikhs left the part of Punjab that suddenly fell on the Pakistani side of the border. The violence that was unleashed was massive and devastating. This book is a novel about a Sikh woman who is a young bride at the time of partition — living on the wrong side of the border. The personal narrative makes the history very real.

Oh, boy, I like lots more books so I guess there will be a few more Top 10 lists … Maybe in one I will highlight Indian writers; maybe another will be about travel books. Then there’s cookbooks. Yoga books. Yikes, the list goes on and on …

In the meantime, I would love to hear from others about book you have discovered and recommend.

Thank you for reading. Please visit BreatheDreamGo or stop by my Facebook page at Breathedreamgo.

BreatheDreamGo » Mumbai

Top 6 photographs of Ganesh festival

Happy birthday Ganesh!

He’s one of the most beloved gods in India; rotund, elephant-headed and multi-armed; the son of Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati — Ganesh is the first god honoured during pujas, and he is the bestower of luck and remover of obstacles.

In honour of Ganesh Chaturthi — the 10 days of birthday celebrations and worship — I am posting some of the best photos I have seen of the massive parade and the immersion of the clay Ganesh idols in the Arabian Sea off the coast of Mumbai.

If you enjoyed this post, you can….

Best bets for a weekend in Mumbai

Mumbai is mesmerizing

What do you do with two days and two nights in Mumbai? Try these suggestions.

FRIDAY

5 pm ~ SPLASH OUT WITH A LEGEND

7 pm ~ WATCH THE SUNSET SINK INTO THE ARABIAN SEA

9:00 pm ~ SMALL PORTIONS, BIG FLAVOUR

11:00 pm ~ DON THE QUEEN’S NECKLACE AT DOME

SATURDAY

9 am ~ BE IN A BOLLYWOOD FILM

10:30 am ~ SLUM IT

9 pm ~ CRAB SHACK

SUNDAY

9 am ~ GET LOST IN A BAZAAR

11:00 am ~ FERRY TO ELEPHANTA ISLAND

3:30 pm ~ TEA AT THE SEA LOUNGE

NOTE: An edited version of this article was originally published in the Toronto Star newspaper as Mumbai Mesmerizes.

If you enjoyed this post, you can….

South Asia travel plans for spring 2011

Moi at Kanyakumari, the southern tip of India, at sunrise 2006 Capturing the magic and mystery of travel in India

Travel writer’s manifesto

Lake Pichola, Udaipur, India My itinerary for 2011

March

April

The Taj Mahal of hotels

My love affair with the Taj Group

Why the Taj Mahal hotel reminds me of the Titanic

The lush, green lungs of Bangalore

Tea and fantasy

Photo of the Week: Ganesh Chaturthi

Autorickshaw ride in Mumbai

Meeting maximum Mumbai

My India list

My India list: top places, events and festivals I want to see

Top 10

And the list continues …

Indian summer: 11 reasons to visit India in the summer

Indian summer

Top 10 books on India (thus far)

Moi at Kanyakumari, the southern tip of India, at sunrise 2006

Capturing the magic and mystery of travel in India

Lake Pichola, Udaipur, India

My itinerary for 2011