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Hotel alternative in India: The homestay option

Mariellen — Wed, 16 May 2012 13:41:23 +0000

Hotels are fine, but homestay is an ideal way to experience travel in India

Hotels are fun, and even cheap hotels have their charms. But sometimes, you have to dig deeper. Indian hospitality is justifiably famous — captured by the slogan, Atithi Devo Bhava, which means The Guest is God. To fully experience this philosophy in action, and to really get to know the culture when you travel in India, you have to stay with an Indian family. But what do you do if you don’t know anyone?

Well, you could try booking through a company like Mahindra Homestays. They are India’s most well-known homestay company. I asked Japa Ghosh, head of marketing at Mahindra Homestays, to fill us in about the homestay option for travellers to India. Here’s what you need to know to find, book and enjoy a homestay, including etiquette tips.

I have found from personal experience that staying with an Indian family while travelling in India was a very culturally rich experience. No longer was I “just a tourist;” I was a member of the family. I hope you give yourself this experience next time you are in India, especially after reading this and getting to know the ropes.

BDG: What is a homestay and how does it work? How is it different than staying in a hotel?

MH: When you stay in a homestay you are a guest in a private home. You will have your own room, normally with an ensuite bathroom, and with all the sort of luxuries you might expect to find in a boutique hotel.

Homestays are run by the homeowners themselves, who are keen to welcome guests into their private homes, to share experiences and relationships which is something hotels simply can’t provide. It takes the detachment away from tourism and gives you a unique and unforgettable experience of the intricacies of Indian life and culture.

Meals are home cooked and authentic, fresh tea and coffee are delivered to your room and guests are treated with the warmth and heartfelt hospitality that India is famed for.

BDG: How do you find a suitable homestay, and how do you know if it’s clean and safe?

MH: The standard and quality of homestays in India can vary dramatically. Anybody can set themselves up as a homestay host and there are no regulations relating to safety and standards.

It is important that if you want to find a high quality homestay that you do some research or book through a reputable agent who can offer some form of guarantee as to what you will be getting.

Mahindra Homestays have a strict selection criterion before taking on a homestay. We look for properties that are unique in some way, or are managed by hosts who will go the extra distance to ensure their guests have a good stay. All Mahindra Homestays are regularly inspected to ensure they comply with standards that include comfort, cleanliness, safety and originality.

Independent homestays should be thoroughly researched before you book, check review sites such as Trip Advisor for recent guest feedback and ask for recommendations on travel forums such as India Mike (but beware of being approached directly by touts).

BDG: How do you book a homestay, what are the usual policies?

MH: Your booking options will depend on your choice of homestay. Many private homestays do not have facilities for taking online bookings, but will accept reservations by phone or email.

Mahindra Homestays are able to take online bookings through our secure site for all our homestays, much in the same way that you would book a hotel. Alternatively, you can book direct with our call centre team, who can also assist you with any transportation requirements, such as train tickets or a car and driver.

BDG: What is the proper etiquette in a homestay: for example, do you tip the owners? Are you required to do any cleaning?

MH: It is important to remember you are a guest in somebody’s home and as such they may have a curfew or house rules, which you would be expected to comply with. These generally would not be too onerous, but relate to things such as keeping the noise down after a certain hour.

You are not required to do any cleaning or chores, although some guests enjoy volunteering in the plantations and working farms for a few hours so they can learn about daily life, such as how tea, coffee and spices are produced; or they might have a go at farming activities such as milking. There is no requirement to tip the owners.

BDG: Why is a homestay in India a good idea?

MH: A homestay offers access to unique activities and events, whether it be adventurous, cultural, historical, relaxation or culinary. Your hosts open up their home and daily life to you and you get a glimpse into the real India that you might otherwise miss staying in a hotel.

It is not unusual for guests to be invited to join the family to attend a small local festival or take a trip to the market to buy the ingredients for dinner.

Experiences such as behind the scenes visits to Bollywood film sets, kayaking or night-fishing in the backwaters, trekking with a conservationist for the elusive tiger or snow leopard or wildlife safaris as well as having dinner with a Maharaja, taking a cooking class, and more, can be arranged through your hosts local connections.

Homestays also encourage responsible tourism. Mahindra Homestays has initiated many programs that a large number of homestays have incorporated. Through their teachings and methods homestays and travellers can have positive and lasting impact on the environment while boosting the regional socio-economic conditions.

BDG: Any tips on the best way to take advantage of a homestay?

MH: To get the best out of your homestay experience make sure you take full advantage of your hosts’ local knowledge. They will be able to advise you on things to do and see in the local area and help you arrange any activities, ensuring you are charged a fair price.

Eating at your homestay offers the opportunity to try some delicious home cooked food and many of the hosts’ are well known for their cooking. Don’t forget to ask for the recipes of your favourite dishes, a souvenir you can share with your friends back home as you recreate the taste of India in your own kitchen.

BDG: Thanks so much! If you want to know more, read the Mahindra Homestays blog for tips, info and contests!

NOTE: All photos courtesy Mahindra Homestays.

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Best bets for a weekend in Mumbai

Mariellen — Wed, 03 Aug 2011 22:17:56 +0000

Tiffin-wallahs, Churchgate Station, Mumbai

Mumbai is mesmerizing

Imagine New York and Hollywood rolled into one, set in the tropics and squeezed onto a peninsula several sizes too small. Mumbai (formerly known as Bombay) is one of the biggest and most densely packed cities on earth, India’s economic engine and the home of Bollywood, the glamour factory that makes more movies than anywhere else – more than twice as many as Hollywood. It buzzes, it never sleeps and don’t get in its way! Mumbai is on the move, and you better be too if you want to get on and off trains, cross the street, order food, shop or achieve any kind of success. For this city represents both the future, in the shape of the dreams of millions, and the past, in the streetscape of grand Victorian buildings.

What do you do with two days and two nights in Mumbai? Try these suggestions.

FRIDAY

Pool side, Taj Mahal Hotel, Mumbai

5 pm ~ SPLASH OUT WITH A LEGEND

According to legend, Jamsetji Tata was turned away by the leading British hotel in Bombay, so he built his own. And thus begins the larger-than-life story of the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Occupying the prime location in town, across from the Gateway of India, this iconic hotel has also occupied a place of prime significance in the social landscape of Mumbai since opening in 1903. The architects of independent India, stars, lovers, maharajas, tourists – many have been drawn to this illustrious landmark, including, of course, the terrorists who attacked it in November 2008. The hotel valiantly re-opened only days later, and has since undergone a complete renovation and reconstruction. From the aqua serenity of the Sea Lounge to the glamour of poolside dining, the hotel offers a dazzling array of food and ambience choices. You may never want to set foot outside. Rooms range from $250 CDN for a Superior Double to $3,600 for a Grande Luxury (not to mention the Presidential and Rajput suites). Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Apollo Bunder, Mumbai. (91) 22 6665 3366

7 pm ~ WATCH THE SUNSET SINK INTO THE ARABIAN SEA

Make use of prime sunset time to walk along Marine Drive from Nariman Point to Chowpatty Beach and watch the red-orange ball sink into the choppy waters of the Arabian Sea. At the end of the two-mile walk you will reach the circus atmosphere and food stalls of Chowpatty Beach: reward yourself by trying fragrant, spicy bhelpuri (less than $1), the ubiquitous street food of Mumbai; or stop by the iconic Cream Centre, a veg-only snack bar that’s been serving delicious puris, samosas (about $3) and sundaes (about $5) for more than 40 years. Fulchand Niwas 25/B Chowpatty Sea Face (22) 23679222 or 23679333.

Chowpatty Beach, Mumbai, at sunset

9:00 pm ~ SMALL PORTIONS, BIG FLAVOUR

India is home to one of the world’s great cuisines, and among the incredible richness and diversity of food available, Gujurati dishes are considered particularly delectable. At stalwart Samrat near Churchgate station, popular with foreigners and locals alike, you can get a Gujurati “thali” (thali means plate) overflowing with tiny portions of curried vegetables, dal, rice, puris, papad, chutneys, raita, dessert and other delicious concoctions, running the gamut of tastes from spicy to sweet (about $6 per person). And best of all, waiters continually top you up for no additional charge. Prem Court, J. Tata Road, Churchgate (22) 4213 5401

11:00 pm ~ DON THE QUEEN’S NECKLACE AT DOME

Take in the view of the Queen’s Necklace at night – the graceful curve of glittering lights along Marine Drive, by the edge of the Arabian Sea – and rub shoulders with the glitterati at Dome, the InterContinetal Hotel’s romantic rooftop lounge. A shot of Johnnie Walker Black Label – the standard drink of Indian men – will cost about $12, and a Kingfisher beer is $7. 135 Marine Drive, Colaba. Dome (91) 22 3987 9999.

SATURDAY

Leopold Cafe, Mumbai

9 am ~ BE IN A BOLLYWOOD FILM

If you dream of being an extra in a Bollywood film, have breakfast at Leopold’s and wait – like Lana Turner at Schwab’s – to be discovered. Leopold’s Café is a Mumbai institution, a well-worn path on the tourist trail, always packed with foreigners who seem to be willing to pay more than double what you would pay elsewhere. Casting agents stop by the café, and roam the nearby streets of Colaba, looking for foreigners to appear as extras in Bollywood films. Leopold’s has an extensive menu of Chinese, Thai, continental and Indian dishes. For breakfast have a masala omelette ($2), fruit salad with yoghurt ($3.50) and fresh mango juice (in season) for $3.50. Colaba Causeway, Bhagat Singh Road, Next To Regal Cinema, Colaba. (022) 22828185 or 22848054.

10:30 am ~ SLUM IT

The best way to get to know city is to take a tour with a local. Mumbai Magic has about 20 tours to choose from – or they can arrange a private tour. You can learn about the city’s cuisine, beach life, traditional dance and music; or you can take their signature tour, The Spirit of Dharavi. Dharavi is the so-called slum that was the setting for the hit film Slumdog Millionaire. People who have taken this tour are astounded by the activity and industry of Dharavi, whose economy is estimated to be worth US $ 500 million. Tours start at about $30 per person, and range from one to six hours. 1403/04, 14th Floor, Tower A Dosti Elite, Sion East Mumbai. Mobile 98677 07414 E-mail deepa@mumbaimagic.com.

Lovers on Bandra's bandstand, Mumbai

2 pm ~ DO THE BANDSTAND

After leaving Dharavi, take the train to nearby Bandra, a suburb of Mumbai known for chic bars, hip boutiques and historic churches. Start with lunch at Out of the Blue, a happening and relaxed hot spot famous for create-your-own sizzlers ($7), a wide range of pasta dishes ($5-10), fondues ($9-16) and dessert. Shop at the boutiques along Linking Road, walk the old district, where fish is still sold in carts by the side of road, and end your afternoon by walking along Bandstand to watch the sunset. This famous seawall promenade will take you past the heavily guarded home of “King Khan,” Shahrukh Khan, one of the biggest stars in Bollywood. Out of the Blue, Le Sutra Hotel, 14 Union Park, Khar West. (22) 26003000 or 9324839393.

9 pm ~ CRAB SHACK

Hole-in-the-wall Trishna, one of Mumbai’s trendiest eateries, has fed celebrities, Bollywood and Hollywood stars and world leaders – and they have the pictures to prove it. This tiny spot in high-end Kola Ghoda is famous for South Indian-style seafood: food reviewers call it “seafood heaven.” Their butter, pepper, garlic crab (price based on size) was recently named the best crab dish in the city – no mean feat, given the plethora of excellent seafood restaurants in Mumbai, a port city. Make a reservation in advance. Sai Baba Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort. (22) 2261 4991 or 2270 3213.

SUNDAY

9 am ~ GET LOST IN A BAZAAR

Mumbai is famous for its many teeming markets and bazaars. Head out early before the heat of the day rises and the crowds converge to explore, shop, eat and experience the other side of Mumbai – away from the well-heeled, leafy streets of Colaba. Walk north past the gothic colossus known as CST (Chhatrapadi Shivaji Terminus, formerly Victoria Terminus) and in 10 minutes you will reach Crawford Market. Look for the landmark, a Norman-Gothic tower at the corner of Lokmany Tilak Road and Dr DN Marg; and friezes by Lockwood Kipling, father of Rudyard, that depict peasants toiling in the field. Breakfast at Badshah, opposite Crawford Market, a century old juice bar famous for faloodas (milk drinks made from nuts, cream, rose syrup, kulfi and vermicelli strands), for about $1-2. 152 Lokmanya Tilak Road. (022) 3692025.

11:00 am ~ FERRY TO ELEPHANTA ISLAND

Ferries run from the Gateway of India to Elephanta Island every half hour. It’s a one-hour ferry ride that takes you a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of Mumbai. The rock-cut temples of Elephanta Island, dating from about 500 AD, are considered to be Mumbai’s premier tourist attraction. After a steep climb, you reach a series of caves containing impressive carvings that depict the legend of Shiva. A round-trip ferry ticket costs about 120 rupees (about $3) and entrance to the UNESCO World Heritage site is about 500 rupees (about $10).

3:30 pm ~ TEA AT THE SEA LOUNGE

Wind up your stay at the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, and your visit to Mumbai, with Asian Hi Tea in the Sea Lounge, an elegant room overlooking the ocean. It’s an institution among the elite families of Mumbai, who often use the room to introduce potential couples. Ask the maitre’d to point out the lucky loveseat: it is said that couples who meet there live happily ever after. Don’t miss the famous dessert trolley. Average cost for two is about $55.00.

NOTE: An edited version of this article was originally published in the Toronto Star newspaper as Mumbai Mesmerizes.

Marine Drive seawall, Mumbai, India

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Uma Paro: Luxury in the Himalayas

Mariellen — Thu, 19 May 2011 20:11:58 +0000

Uma Paro, Bhutan

Heavenly haven

Imagine my surprise when I arrived in Paro, Bhutan, was met at the airport by two very charming men, Kanchzen (my guide) and David (my driver), driven about 10 minutes up a hill outside of town to the Uma Paro boutique hotel, introduced to my butler Jeewan and shown to my 1,200-square-foot villa. It was a bit like waking up in Oz and seeing everything in Technicolor. Or having an old dress turn into a glittering gown and a pumpkin turn into a gilded carriage. I had to rub my eyes and pinch myself to believe it.

The bedroom in my villa

I really didn’t know what to do first. Explore the delights of my villa: Have a bath in the claw-foot tub? Warm up in front of the wood-burning traditional stove (called a bukhari)? Sit outside on my terrace and use the WiFi service on my laptop? Ask Jeewan to fetch me a fresh fruit smoothie from the hotel’s stellar kitchen? Or just stare out the enormous picture window in my bedroom at the million-dollar view of the Paro Valley and Himalayan peaks?

Or explore the hotel: Eat lunch in the glass enclosed circular dining room, Bukhari? Have a treatment at the COMO Shambhala spa? Swim in the indoor pool and use the steam room in the ladies dressing area? Or sit outside and have a cup of steaming chai?

I opted for lunch in the dining room, knowing that over the course of the next five days I would get a chance to try everything else. And I did.

My villa, Uma Paro, Bhutan

A COMO hotel is a special hotel

The Uma Paro is part of the COMO Hotels and Resorts, a small chain of specialty hotels and resorts located in carefully chosen places around the world. I have never been to any of the other properties, but they all look at least as spectacular as the Uma Paro. There’s the Uma Ubud in Bali, for example, or the three COCO Shambala resorts: Cocoa Island in the Maldives, the COCO Shambhala Estate Bali and Parrot Cay in the Turks and Caicos. I am sure all of these places, plus the hotels in London and Bangkok, are as special as the Uma Paro.

"Bobo" dessert

For one thing, a lot of care has been taken to make the hotel as culturally appropriate as possible. The main building is housed in an authentic Bhutanese structure that is several hundred years old, and the cuisine, decor and even some of the spa treatments all pay homage to the culture of Bhutan. I never felt I was leaving Bhutan when I entered the premises — on the contrary, staying at the Uma Paro was a seamless part of my Bhutan experience.

I tried my first Bhutanese meal, ever, in the Uma Paro restaurant, Bukhari. It was comprised largely of red rice and seasoned vegetables and though it was well-prepared, it didn’t grab my fancy. I much preferred the Indian food on the menu, and the fresh salads, and ate Bhutanese only once. In fact, I found the food at the Uma Paro almost too well-prepared: one guest, from the USA, told me she thought it was “bobo.” I never really did find out what “bobo” meant, but I am assuming it’s something about it being a bit too much. But I like simple, fresh, vegetarian food, so I am not the best judge.

Bath house at the Uma Paro, Bhutan

A word about butlers

Jeewan, my butler, at the door of my villa

Tourists are required to have a guide with them while they are in Bhutan, and Kanchzen accompanied me whenever I left the property; but while I was on the hotel grounds — which are extensive — my butler, Jeewan, was always close at hand. After I unpacked, I headed back to the main building and Bukhari, the restaurant, to order lunch. I was surprised to see Jeewan in the restaurant, and assumed he was a waiter as well as a butler. No. Wrong. I didn’t get it; it took a moment to sink in. Jeewan was my butler and was taking only my order in the restaurant. In fact, as it turned out, I never needed to speak with another hotel staff member. Just Jeewan. He was my intermediary for everything. When the front desk staff saw me coming, they immediately contacted him, and he would materialize in front of me, as if from thin air. As Jeewan got to know me, he also became very skilled at anticipating my needs.

Bukhari, traditional wood stove, in my villa

At first, I thought I might have trouble adjusting to life with Jeewan, but boy was I wrong again. I grew to rely on him, and wondered how I would ever be able to live without him. He had a special lunch packed for me when I was ill, and setting out to walk the steep climb to Taktshang Monastery. He found an electrical adapter for me so I could plug in my laptop. He delivered my meals to my villa when I was working and didn’t want to go to the restaurant. Each night, he lit my bukhari, which heated up my living room. He found a copy of Travelers and Magicians for me, a wonderful Bhutanese movie, and set it up for me to watch on the big screen TV in my bedroom. He also told me quite a lot about his family and about Bhutanese society — he was real, as well as efficient.

Between Kanchzen, David and Jeewan, I got a great impression of the professionalism of hospitality workers in Bhutan — and the warmth of the people. And I certainly got a taste of the COMO magic formula: handcrafted accommodation with outstanding service and an uncanny attention to authenticity.

Moi, on the terrace of my villa

The only problem was that I was getting a little too used to all that space, service and luxury! The bathroom in my villa was about the size of my apartment in Toronto; and I even had rooms I never went in. I never went in the private treatment room, which doubles as a spare room; and I never went in the butler’s kitchen, with its own door to the outside (the butler doesn’t enter and leave using the front door). I almost never used the shower stall, preferring instead the claw-foot tub, and I never stretched out on the divan in my bedroom. Ahhhh, missed opportunities!

But I did try to use all the facilities the hotel had to offer: I swam several times in the pool, steamed in the steam room, had an Ayurvedic treatment in the spa and walked among the villas scattered about the extensive grounds. Mine was the closest villa, but some of them are quite far from the main building and a golf cart is used to transport luggage and guests.

And of course the five days flew by and it was time to leave. It was hard to say good bye. I grew very attached to Kanchzen, David and Jeewan, and loved my villa at the Uma Paro. In my memory, my stay at Uma Paro and my visit to Bhutan will be forever inextricably linked. If I discovered Shangri-la at all, while I was in Bhutan, it was at the Uma Paro.

To read more about my adventures in Bhutan, please read Bhutan: Is happiness a place?

Bukhari, the restaurant at Uma Paro

NOTE: I was a guest of the Uma Paro in Bhutan … and I retain my policy of resolutely telling it like it is. This place seriously rocked!

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Bundi Vilas: The perfect haveli hotel

Mariellen — Tue, 26 Apr 2011 09:56:29 +0000

Dining on the rooftop terrace, under the shadow of Garh Palace

I had great expectations for Bundi Vilas. It is the highest rated hotel in Bundi on Trip Advisor, Lonely Planet gives it an excellent write-up and I had met owner JP Sharma in Delhi — and knew him to be an intelligent, professional man with excellent taste and a deep-seated commitment to tourism in Rajasthan. I was not disappointed. From the moment I came out of the twisting narrow alley leading up to the heveli and saw the soaring archway that marks the entrance, I sensed something special. Again, my intuition and India’s magic led me to a very special treasure, the kind of accommodation that is itself a destination.

And, of course, it helps that Bundi Vilas is located deep in the heart of the old city of Bundi — a town filled with fascinating architecture, exquisite art, elaborate stepwells and an ambience that is reminiscent of medieval Europe. You can read about Bundi in my post, Bundi: Exquisite jewel needs polishing.

Traditional haveli brought back to life

Arched entrance to Bundi Vilas

Bundi Vilas is small, only seven rooms, in a rescued haveli. When JP bought the ruined building, his friends and colleagues thought he was crazy. But it appears he knew what he was doing. He restored it, bringing it up to modern standards in places where it matters — lighting, air conditioning and bathrooms — but otherwise decorated it in a tasteful, inspired and authentic Rajasthani haveli style.

But the ingredient that transforms it from a lovely place to stay into a home-away-from-home is the management: Anita, Jaya and Arun Sharma — JP’s mother, younger sister and brother. They are a sweet, refined and caring Brahmin family who originally hail from a nearby village. I felt very cared for while I was there, and spent time with all family members, as you can read in my post Bundi: Exquisite jewel needs polishing.

The perfect writer’s room

I went to temple on Navaratri with Anita and Jaya, and shopping and to see an ancient Shiva temple with Arun. I watched the India Team win the Cricket World Cup with Arun, and ran down to see the Gangor procession with Jaya. I never felt alone in Bundi; onthe contrary, I felt I had met friends.

Jaya and me

Jaya and I decided we felt like sisters – funny because my real sister’s name is Victoria, which is essentially Jayaa in Hindi — and I told her when (if?) she gets married, I will come to her wedding.

The rooms are each unique and as I was the only guest the day I arrived, I had some trouble choosing. One room, the largest made me feel like royalty; but in the end I settled on the princess-in-the-tower room, which seemed to me to be an eminently suitable writer’s room. It had many small windows in three directions, a sturdy desk, and was on the roof, facing the rooftop terrace. A quiet spot, and I did my yoga practise ont he terrace in the morning before breakfast. Quiet, that is, except for the squeal of monkeys.

A word about the monkeys of Bundi. Yes, they are a nuisance, but I never felt in danger, I never felt threatened. At Bundi Vilas they have really though of everything. They even employ a young man with an air rifle to chase them off the roof, because the rooftop terrace is also the open-air restaurant. And it is one of Bundi Vilas’ best features.

Bundi Vilas lies in the shadow of Garh Palace, right up against the mountain the supports it. This is the gothic castle that Rudyard Kipling said was “made by man in uneasy dreams …the work of goblins.” At night, when darkness falls, golden spotlights light up the facade of the Palace, and monkeys clamber across its surface. It is truly macabre, and spooky … and wonderful. I have rarely been anywhere with such ambience!

My writer's room on the roof

They serve delicious food, family style — so you don’t get a choice, but there is enough variety to keep anyone who likes north Indian food happy. As they are Brahmin, the food is completely vegetarian, but they will serve you beer or Indian wine if you so desire. When they realized I actually like spicy food — unlike many foreigners it seems — they spiced up the food for me and it was perfect.

shopping with Arun

I felt so comfortable in my rooftop room. I felt I could write a book there. I pictured myself a kind of modern day Georges Sand, scribbling away with a feather tip pen, inpsired by the ghost of Kipling who spent some time in Bundi.

Bundi Vilas is definitely on my list of favourite places to stay in India.

NOTE: I was hosted by Bundi Vilas for my stay — but only because I pursued this request. I wanted to stay there for the reasons listed above, and the Sharma family’s kind offer to host me in no way influenced my assessment or description.

Bedroom at Bundi Vilas

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My favourite hotels in India, part one

Mariellen — Sat, 06 Nov 2010 13:21:04 +0000

Rooftop swing chair, Inn Seventh Heaven, Pushkar, Rajasthan, India

My favourite hotels in India

These are my top 5 hotels in India. I have stayed in all of them, and no considerations of sponsorship, price or relationship has influenced my decisions to recommend them. I look for places that combine personality, charm, comfort and integrity. Rooms must be clean, staff must be friendly and the hotels have to offer a little something special — such as extreme helpfulness or impeccable service — to make it on the list. Part two, favourite hotels 6-10, coming soon.

1. The Windamere Hotel, Darjeeling

The Windamere Hotel site. It’s probably the most expensive hotel on the list, and I stayed there as a guest of IndiaTourism, which might cause you to doubt my credibility for recommending it — but I genuinely LOVE this hotel. It’s number one for a reason: it’s my favourite hotel in the world. No, it is not the newest or the sleekest, but the Windamere is a very special place. It’s a near-perfect combination of stunning location, English-cottage-inspired coziness and impeccable service. Originally a home for bachelor tea planters out from England to make their fortune in India in the 19th century, it was turned into a hotel after World War II.

The Windamere Hotel, Darjeeling, West Bengal, India

The title of a book about the Windamere sums it up: Bliss in a swirling haze. The Raj-era hotel’s various buildings wind around the top of Darjeeling’s central peak, Observatory Hill. On clear days, hotel guests are afforded panoramic views of the ramshackle city below, the verdant, rolling tea gardens in the middle distance and the far-off, white-peaked Himalayan mountain range. But on many days, the hotel is socked-in by mist and haze, giving it a romantic, other-world ambiance. There is nothing to do but sink into over-stuffed chintz-covered sofas and take tea in one of the drawing rooms, in front of the fire, or on one of the well-placed terraces. White-gloved waiters to serve four–course meals at three set times per day in the dining room; and friendly, professional staff serve the Windamere’s own blend of Darjeeling tea in the drawing room at four in the afternoon; light coal fires in the heritage rooms at dusk; place hot water bottles in the beds during dinner; and return carefully folded laundry in silk embroidered cases.

Here’s my article, Darjeeling: Steeped in stories, with more pictures of the hotel.

2. Hotel Ganges View, Varanasi

Hotel Ganges View, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India

Hotel Ganges View site. The prices have sky-rocketed and it’s almost impossible to book — it’s always full — but the Hotel Ganges View is a very special place. For one thing, the location is ideal. The hotel is in Assi Ghat, which is the very first (or last) of the many ghats that line the river for a full six kilometres. It is at the edge of the action, close enough to get to, but far enough away from the crowds, the aarti, the cremation ghats and the central bazaar to be relatively peaceful. Varanasi is an intense place, so being able to find some breathing room is essential. The hotel itself is in what appears to be a former mansion. All the guests eat together in the beautifully appointed living / dining room, and the owner — who I never met — is very culturally minded: he often holds music sessions in the hotel. Upstairs, there are a series of terraces with stunning views along the scythe of the ghats and the sunset across the river. I would not want to stay anywhere else in Varanasi, and I was willing to splurge when I was there in 2009 and go well over my budget for my room. I wrote about my room at the Hotel Ganges View on my old blog at Travelblog.org.

3. Casa Cottage, Bangalore

Casa Cottage, Bangalore, Karnataka, India

Casa Cottage site. Jai’adore this cozy cottage in Bangalore! I stayed there as a guest of Benjamine and Bhushan when I was researching my cover story on Bangalore for Discover India magazine (there’s a PDF of this article on my About Mariellen page). This hotel is not on the list because of my complimentary stay: Bangalore is another one of those crazy-busy Indian cities, but then you get into a back lane in an old residential neighbourhood, and behind the gates of Casa Cottage, and aaahhhhh, peace! About 10 or 12 lovely rooms in a charming heritage house sit behind a front lawn and casual open-air cafe. It is honestly like staying with friends. In fact, Benjamine has a way of making friends with just about everyone. She is a very warm, helpful and hard-working woman, originally from France. I wrote about Casa Cottage in my blog A garden oasis in hectic Bangalore.

4. Jas Vilas, Jaipur, Rajasthan

Jas Vilas hotel, Jaipur, India

Jas Vilas site. Jas Vilas is an oasis in Jaipur. A wide expanse of lawn out front, and rooms ranged around a cool blue swimming pool, give the Jas Vilas a feeling of luxury and spaciousness. It manages to find the sweet spot between elegance and comfort, something not easy to do. (It’s the way I try to dress, actually, so I know how hard it is …) Plus, it is owned and operated by a charming couple who know everyone, and everything about Jaipur. It is another one of my splurge places as their prices have gone way up, too. But you could spend an entire day there, and even though it’s a small place, you would not feel the need to leave. I wrote about Jas Vilas, and my first trip to Jaipur, on my old blog on Travel.blog.org

Inn Seventh Heaven courtyard, Pushkar, Rajasthan, India

5. Inn Seventh Heaven, Pushkar, Rajasthan

Inn Seventh Heaven site. Whenever I think of Inn Seventh Heaven, I think of relaxing on the rooftop restaurant, swinging on one of the Rajasthani-style chair swings, staring out at the view of the hills surrounding the small town of Pushkar and enjoying the friendly hospitality and tasty food. I stayed on that rooftop for about 10 days in March 2009, when I was recovering from heart ache, and I grew very attached to the place, and the staff. I am also very fond of the owner Anoop, and his family. It’s another one of those places that passes the I-could-stay-here-all-day-and-not-feel-the-need-to-go-anywhere test. These are my favourite kinds of places: Small and intimate, but interesting and diverse enough to hold your attention. The Inn was a grand haveli in a Pushkar back street until Anoop took it over and made it what it is today. The rooms are in the traditional Rajashtani style, on about four floors, all facing an inner courtyard. On the ground floor is a small boutique, an internet cafe and a lovely fountain that attracts small song birds. On the roof is the Sixth Sense restaurant — the best place to eat and chill out in Pushkar. Service is slow, but who cares? I wrote about Pushkar and Inn Seventh Heaven on my old travel blog at Travelblog.org.

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Bicycle rickshaw ride through the Haridwar bazaar, India

Mariellen — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 12:58:11 +0000

For Video Friday on BreatheDreamGo, I have a video I took while riding in a bicycle rickshaw on the way to the train station from my hotel in Haridwar during the Kumbh Mela. I was staying at the wonderful Haveli Hari Ganga, which is located deep in the bazaar – where the streets are too narrow for cars and too crowded with people and stalls piled high with brass figurines of the Hindu pantheon, pyramids of vermilion kumkum powder and neatly stacked wafers of pastel sweets. The hotel has its own bicycle rickshaw for transporting passengers to and from the train station.

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The lost horizons of Sikkim

Mariellen — Thu, 25 Mar 2010 04:10:08 +0000

Classic Sikkim view: rhododendrons, mountains, mist

I left Darjeeling for Sikkim thinking I could visit Gangtok and Pelling in three days. They are only about 130 kms apart. Sometimes, it is hard to leave Canada-brain behind: in Canada, that would take about an hour-and-a-half. In Sikkim, it takes most of the day. The roads are so narrow, so windy, so bumpy and at such an incline (either up or down) that you have to drive very slowly. So, three-quarters of the way to Gangtok, I had to decide where I would spend my three days in Sikkim, and I chose Pelling. This added many difficult hours of driving to my trip, more so for my wonderful guide (Paras) and driver (Ashok). It was very sporting of them to not only agree to this abrupt change of plans, but to encourage it: they wanted me to have the best possible experience in Sikkim, and they felt Pelling would be a better choice. These guys from Help Tourism are true professionals; I cannot speak highly enough about them.

welcome to Sikkim

While Gangtok is the capital city of Sikkim, I chose to go to Pelling because it is a small town surrounded by historic ruins, important monasteries, authentic villages and of course the mountains, especially Kanchendzonga, the world’s third highest. Sikkim seems to be an entirely mountainous state, and it is one of the smallest of India’s 28 states. It is also one of the newest. Until the mid-1970s, Sikkim was an independent mountain kingdom, ruled by a Buddhist King. How it came to be part of India is a controversial subject that still stirs up feelings. The book about the modern history of Sikkim and its annexation by India is called “Smash and Grab,” which gives you some idea about how some people think about it.

women from Darap Village

I knew next to nothing about Sikkim before going, so it was a real adventure in many ways. I knew only that it was supposed to be beautiful (it is) and mystical. The massive massif Kanchendzonga is its presiding deity. It houses five gods (one for each peak) and provides both spiritual and physical protection: no invading army could ever scale it. Pelling just happens to be the best spot to see Kanchendzonga, as it is only 43 kms away. But that is only if the mountain decides to show itself to you. I was blessed with seeing it in Darjeeling on my birthday, but, alas, not while in Sikkim. Though absolutely enormous both in height and width, the mountain in also elusive. It hides behind thick swirls of mist and cloud. This is probably one of the reasons it has gained such a mystical reputation. You feel like you can practically reach out and touch it, but you can’t see it! It’s maddening … and it quickens the soul and is of course a great teacher of the eastern spiritual values: patience, respect, acceptance and faith in the divine plan.

Pemayangtse Temple

I made some quick notes while I was driving through Sikkim. Sikkim is:

masses of red rhododendrons
bananas trees by the side of the road
lean handsome people
short people carrying huge bundles on their heads: twigs, leaves, wood, boxes
terraced rice paddies
bamboo groves
chickens wandering everywhere

And of course ribbon-like roads winding around graceful mountains, deep valleys with thin rivers that will fill to torrents during monsoon and clouds of thick mist obscuring mountain tops and views. It’s a lovely place, very gentle, and the people seem gentle too.

Yapu Yongda

My first morning in Pelling I went immediately to the Pemayangtse Monastery, which is considered a very old and very important Buddhist monastery. I went for two reasons: one was to see the monastery itself, of course, and the other was to meet Yapu Yongda, a highly regarded Buddhist monk with a colourful past who opened a school in Pelling to teach children both general subjects and Buddhism.

The temple is extraordinary, but as usual I wasn’t allowed to take pictures inside. Huge murals of fierce looking gods cover the walls and upstairs there’s a painted sculpture of the various levels of heaven that is considered a masterpiece. In this room, gentler, more playful murals adorn the walls — and several erotic paintings are covered by silk yellow curtains. The day I was there, the only other visitor was a German woman who whispered to me: “Look behind the yellow curtain.” I was a bit afraid, to tell you the truth, until I saw the lovely, LOVING images. Then I was delighted!

Ancient Hindu temples are also often adorned with erotic images, usually in stone, so it seems that puritanism is a more recent trend (and ultimately very destructive, to my mind).

class at Yongda's school DPC

Yapu Yongda, 66, lives behind the monastery in an ancestral home. I believe he comes from an illustrious family. He was in charge of the Chogyal (King) of Sikkim’s personal bodyguard until the monarchy was dissolved in 1975 when Sikkim became part of India. At that time he was imprisoned briefly for his anti-India stance. Now he lives in Pelling where he seems to keep very busy with his duties as a monk at the monastery and running the DPC School that he founded 30 years ago.

I interviewed him on tape twice, for about three hours in total — he is a great talker — and I learned a lot about the history of Buddhism in Sikkim and the takeover of the country by India. I was really moved when he told me that the Chogyal, Palden Thondup Namgyal, decided not to resist the takeover because it would have been against his Buddhist principles of doing no harm. It must have been a difficult decision for the Chogyal to take. Among other things, he lost his American wife Hope Cooke, who moved back to the U.S. with their children for safety reasons. Some years later, the Chogyal went to the U.S. for cancer treatment but died there at the age of 59. There are pictures of this handsome, thoughtful man in Yapu Yongda’s office, and I felt very moved by his plight.

Penyangtse Temple building

In the afternoon I went to Rabdentse, the ruins of the former palace of the Chogyals of Sikkim. They reigned from this small mountain top site, with an amazing vista (if only the mists would clear!!) until the middle of the 19th century, when the capital was moved to Gangtok. The best part about this site was the long walk through the woods to get there.

forest walk to Rabdentse

On my second day in Pelling, Sikkim Tourism finally sent me a guide, and he was terrific. Manoj is a young, recently married Sikkimese man who lives in Pelling and is very enthusiastic about Sikkim. His passion, more than his knowledge, makes him a good guide. Manoj and I walked waaayyy up a mountain outside of Pelling to visit another monastery — but we turned back before reaching the top. I was recovering from the effects of drinking bad water at my hotel and not used to the high elevation. But the view from near the top was amazing. Or it would have been if it was just a tad less misty!

road up to monastery

After tea with Manoj’s beautiful wife and Mother in their very small one-room apartment in town, we drove to Darap Village, about 8 kms from Pelling. There we were met by Shiva Gurung, a man who runs an authentic Lepcha homestay — called Dara Gaon Village Retreat — with two rooms, and he walked through the village with us, as our guide. Darap is a small rural community in a peaceful valley ringed by gorgeous mountains. The small wooden houses are painted in shades of yellow, pink and turquoise, children and farm animals play in the open fields and the whole places seemed quite idyllic to me.

On our walk, Manoj and Shiva told me about a local religion called Yuma that was making a comeback; and pointed out houses that had the Yuma flag (each with a small shrine at the base). They wanted to know if I wanted to meet the “Yuma,” the main priestess — who apparently never meets foreigners or tourists. I leapt at the chance.

Shiva took us to a simple house on the edge of town. First we had to take off everything made of leather and leave it outside, with our shoes. Then we had to wash our hands and finally we were escorted through a low door into a small dim room. The room was almost empty except for a white wood cabinet and large chair. My heart leapt when I walked in and saw a vision in white sitting on the chair: an astonishingly beautiful, very slim, light-skinned young woman with Asian features. She looked like one of the paintings I had seen in Ajanta. She was in a meditation posture, very still and she seemed light, ethereal and almost translucent.

receiving a blessing from the Yuma

I felt like I had walked through a portal into an altered state. The room had a calm, sacred energy that was quite unlike anything I have ever experienced. Shiva, Manoj and I were instructed by a woman who was also in the tiny room to sit a certain way on the ground with our legs crossed under us. After praying together, the Yuma allowed me to interview her on tape and take pictures — which I felt was very generous of her. Manoj translated her simple, straightforward answers. She told me that she only eats fruit, and I asked her if eating fruit only would help cure my ongoing digestive problems,. She said she would bless me, and said some prayers over me using leaves, water and rice; and then gave me the rice and told me to eat nine grains whenever I feel unwell. After about 20 minutes I felt I had asked enough questions and we left.

Without going into too much detail, the main teaching of Yuma is that you must know yourself, especially your own heart, to reach the bliss state or heaven. It makes sense to me. Perhaps in another blog I will explain more about this intriguing religion and about the young woman herself. When I left they gave me a CD with some teachings on it, but I haven’t listened to it yet and I don’t even know what language it is in. (They speak Nepali in Sikkim.)

homestay in Darap Village

From there we went to the homestay, where Shiva’s wife made us soup and tea and our driver, Jiten, drew pictures with their young son. It’s a simple place, very clean and very peaceful. I didn’t stay there, but I feel I can recommend it based on my experience and on how warm and welcoming Shiva and his wife are. I can imagine that it would make a great place to stay for a few days to experience village life and as a base for treks.

I called these people "walking trees," much to their delight

The entire three days I was in Pelling, I had one eye fixed continuously on the western horizon. This is where Kanchendzonga, the world’s third highest mountain is supposed to be — and only 43 kms away, apparently. It never appeared from behind the mist and cloud, though occasionally I felt I could discern the white outline of five majestic peaks. I do, however, admit it could have been my longing and my imagination.

Humans are alone among animals for making meaning, and I have decided that I am meant to go back to Shangri La — I mean Sikkim — to see this mystical mirage, this deity, this mountain. But next time, I will not be on a fixed timeline, and I will not depend on Sikkim Tourism, who I found to be unhelpful and unreliable. I will find a quiet place to stay in or near Pelling, or maybe Yaksom, and I will stay until the mountain blesses me with its appearance.

peer closely, you may see Kanchendzonga through the mist (this was taken from my hotel, which on a good day would have a stunning view of the mountain

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Darjeeling: Steeped in stories

Mariellen — Sat, 20 Mar 2010 17:48:34 +0000

Kanchendzonga, sunrise, March 8 2010

The Queen of Hill Stations

Sipping Darjeeling tea in tea heaven

Stop two on my IndiaTourism-sponsored road trip was three nights in Darjeeling, known as the “queen of the hill stations,” and home of the “toy train” and of course the “champagne of tea.”

I have long wanted to visit Darjeeling and when I was researching and planning my trip, I set my heart on staying at the Windamere Hotel. I had also set my heart on getting up at 4 am to drive from Darjeeling to Tiger Hill to watch the sun rise light up the great Himalayan range on my 50th birthday. Luckily for me, both IndiaTourism and nature cooperated.

I got to stay at the Windamere Hotel and the morning I went up to Tiger Hill, March 8, the weather was clear. After waiting in the cold half-light for 30 or 60 minutes, the sun suddenly burst into view in the east, everyone clapped and shouted and the white Himalayan mountains in the west — especially the massive five-peaked Kanchendzonga — started turning various glorious shades of gold and rose as the sun cleared the horizon and climbed into the sky. It is indeed one of nature’s greatest shows on earth and I felt a good way to mark a milestone birthday. I felt truly elated watching this spectacle, it was a dream come true.

sunrise from Tiger Hill, March 8 2010

Seeing this sun rise from Tiger Hill was on my must-do list; and so was seeing Mount Everest. I accomplished both on my birthday, as Everest is one of the peaks you can see from Tiger Hill (though it is much further away than Kanchendzonga and therefore much smaller). Kanchendzonga is the third highest mountain on earth, and it is so wide that it dominates the skyline in this part of India — that is, when it is visible. I saw it the morning of my birthday, and was lucky enough to see how it dominates Darjeeling’s horizon, but then it disappeared into swirls of mist and cloud for the next six days that I was in Darjeeling and Sikkim. I never saw it again. Apparently, the mountain people say that the mountain chooses who it reveals itself to, so I feel blessed to have seen it at all.

From there, my amazing guide Paras suggested we wait until the crowds leave and walk part way down Tiger Hill, which is located within the boundaries of a nature reserve. (Paras works for Help Tourism: I am going to write more about this wonderful company, which is a pioneer in eco and community tourism in India’s north-east). He was always making fantastic suggestions such as this, and I loved the walk down almost as much as the sunrise. We got to see the mystical mountain (Kanchendzonga) from various lovely spots and visited a very old and sacred hillside temple dedicated to the goddess Durga.

Luckily for us, we arrived just as the morning puja was taking place. There were only three other worshippers there, all women — which was fitting as it was International Women’s Day. I felt very moved as the women and the Pandit welcomed us whole-heartedly into the ceremony, and I could feel the sacred spiritual energy of this small, venerable temple that clings to the mountainside facing Kanchendzonga. When the Pandit placed a tikka mark on my forehead and wrapped a red and gold cloth around my neck, I felt deeply blessed. My birthday celebrations were complete. I thought to myself that this simple temple, set in a natural environment and deeply imbued with sacred energy, suits me so much more than the big, bustling and famous temples. I didn’t go to Kalighat in Kolkata, and then was treated to this amazing puja on my birthday. “Ram never makes a mistake,” so the saying goes.

Durga temple, Tiger Hill

So that was how my first morning in Darjeeling started. My nights were spent at the Windamere Hotel. This is what the Windamere Hotel is like.

When I was a young girl, I went through a phase where I was entranced by Victorian England. One of my favourite movie was The Little Princess with Shirley Temple as the daughter of a wealthy British officer who is sent to the front during the Boer War. She lives in luxury at a private girl’s school in London until he goes missing and all his money is lost. Abruptly she is relegated to living in the attic with another urchin and working as a maid to pay off her school fees. The crusty old gentlemen in the house next door takes a liking to her, and in the middle of the night sends his Indian manservant – who dresses in formal Indian wear, including a turban, and sports a parrot on his arm – to outfit her room with a thick comforter, a luxurious bathrobe, a roaring fire and a table full of good things to eat. She wakes up to this wonderous miracle, and accepts it all with unquestioning enthusiasm. I have always loved this scene, and being at the Windamere Hotel made me feel like a princess.

one of the Windamere's gracious terraces

I will write an entire blog about the Windamere Hotel because it has joined the ranks of very special places I have discovered in India, along with Casa Piccola in Bangalore, Bhakti Kutir in Goa and Inn Seventh Heaven in Pushkar, among others.

Established in the 19th century as a boarding house for bachelor English and Scottish tea planters, the Windamere was converted into a hotel just before the outbreak of the Second World War. The hotel works very hard to retain the old-fashioned charm and attentive service it has always been famous for. Like Darjeeling itself, it is steeped in stories. One of my favourites is that the Chogyal (King) of Sikkim met his young, beautiful American wife (Hope Cooke) in the hotel drawing room in 1958.

my charming bedroom at the Windamere (named Chogyal of Sikkim)

The entire hotel is reminiscent of an English country house, heavy with wood work and light with chintz. The attention to detail and homey touches are astonishing: a hot water bottle in your bed each evening, a gong that announces breakfast, lunch, tea service and dinner, laundry delivered in a quilted cloth folder, white-gloved waiters, a coal fire in your room each evening.

The Windamere also has the most favoured location in town, almost at the top of Observatory Hill, Darjeeling’s highest point. The only thing higher is the Mahakula Temple. The sound of the temple bells and the temple’s peaceful vibes only add to the Windamere’s already considerable charms. I would say that of all the hotels in town, the Windamere must have the most spacious grounds and best views. Though there are at least two other upscale hotels in town, none offer the wide-open vistas you can find at the Windamere.

This hotel conjured my past in so many ways. In some ways, it reminded me of my family cottage growing up, and in some ways of the England I imagined when I as a child. So many stars seemed to align for me here. The first night I arrived I looked out my window at a single bright star in the mauve dusk (must have been Venus) and I felt “I have been here before.” I don’t know whether it was in reality, in a past life or in my imagination.

And it’s not just the hotel of course, it’s Darjeeleing itself. From the time I was about three years old, my grandmother, Nana, and I used to have tea parties. She bought me a plastic tea set when I was about three; and a china set when I was about seven or eight. I loved having tea with my elegant and kindly grandmother, who was a very good story teller along with being a very stylish woman (she wore simple Wallis Simpson-style A-line dresses in shades of taupe adorned with large but tasteful costume necklaces, rings and bracelets and had long tapered nails). Stories and tea went together, and they have both become important to me. I grew up to become a writer and a tea drinker (a tea lover!). So going to Darjeeling was a kind of pilgrimage for me in several ways.

When I first arrived in Darjeeling, I kept saying to my guide, Paras, “I can’t believe I am finally here!” My time there was magical partially because of Darjeeling itself, partially because of Paras, and partially because I was staying at the Windamere Inn.

the temple at the top of Observatory Hill -- which is both Buddhist and Hindu

Darjeeling is a special place because of a serendipitous meeting of location and history. Situated way up in the Himalayan foothills, it is presided over by the mighty massif Kanchendzonga. The British discovered that the elevation and conditions were precisely suited to the cultivation of tea, so they began importing tea plants from China and slowly but surely established a thriving tea industry. The town of Darjeeling was home base to the British tea planters and eventually became the summer residence of the British Raj, whose capital in India was steamy Calcutta until 1911. When the summer heat grew intense, the British Raj in Calcutta made the arduous journey into the hills to find relief in Darjeeling’s temperate climate.

Even to date, Darjeeling retains the flavour of the colonial past and gives the town a historically rich texture. The “toy train,” which runs on the world’s smallest gauge — it’s ancient steam engines pull two tiny blue bogeys — still runs between Darjeeling and Siliguri. Several times a day you can hear it’s comforting whistle as the train pulls either into or out of the station. Train enthusiasts come from all over the world, but perhaps especially from Britain, to experience this train, which has been in operation since the mid 1800s. It is the same train which carried the British Raj.

Mine is not the only camera sticking out the window

I took a joy trip on this train, riding for about an hour from Darjeeling down to Ghum. To be honest, though it was very slow and I was occasionally sprinkled with soot from the charcoal-powered steam engine, I much preferred it to the bumpy road. If and when I go back to Darjeeeling, I’m taking the little train! In most places, the train runs alongside the road and in front of houses and stores. Often, the buildings are only an arm’s length away. I felt like I could have reached out and grabbed a bag of chips from one of the little stalls along the way (except I wasn’t hungry).

For me, going to Darjeeling really was all about the tea, so I was thrilled to visit my first tea garden. Paras and our driver Ashok made our way through the narrow, crowded winding streets of Darjeeling to the outskirts of town. Darjeeling has become a sprawling city that seems to cling precariously to the side of a mountain. You are always traveling either up or down, and there’s a world of difference between being in the crowded market areas and the many tea gardens that stretch out in every direction covering many hillsides for miles and miles.

tea as far as the eye can see

In a very short time we reached Happy Valley tea estate, one of the oldest and highest-elevation tea garden in Darjeeling. First I toured the factory, which is basically a functional museum. All the equipment is vintage and seems to be in perfect working order as tea is processed here during the season (which hadn’t started yet — I was about a week or two too soon for the “first flush” picking.) Then we went around back and walked out into the tea garden, which was one of the absolute highlights of my stay in Darjeeling.

We walked for about half an hour or more, past the collection of small houses where the tea workers live and out into the tea gardens. At that elevation we could see for miles, and we were completely surrounded by carefully trimmed tea bushes growing in a luxuriant pattern. From a distance, a tea garden looks like a thick deep green carpet. The air was fresh and clean and the atmosphere calm, sunny and very happy indeed.

Happy Valley tea garden is a happy place

I have always loved tea — like many people, I find it very refreshing — and was not at all surprised to be among tea gardens and feel that the “spirit” of the tea plant is very positive, soothing and uplifting. I’m so glad I was able to travel to Darjeeling and discover this for myself.

While in Darjeeling I was very privileged to meet and interview a number of remarkable people. The first was the Mother Superior of Loreto Convent School. Darjeeling is famous for its many outstanding schools, but I was keen to visit Loreto because of its long history in India, Irish connection and because it was Mother Teresa’s order before she left to start Missionaries of Charity in Calcutta. In fact, Mother Teresa was on the train between Calcutta and Darjeeling when she was hit with the epiphany that completely changed her left: she realized that she wanted devote her life to the poor of Calcutta.

Mother Superior of Loreto

Mother Superior showed me around the school and we had a good chat about spirituality. She is of Irish origin, energetic and charming, and can count an open mind and the Irish “gift of the gab” among her best traits. I liked her immensely. Though Loreto was originally founded by an English woman — named Mary Ward (!) — and started in India by a group of Irish nuns, she is the only “foreigner” at Loreto now. All the other teachers and students are from India or Nepal.

I went from Loreto to the Missionaries of Charity house and orphanage and spoke to two beautiful nuns who told me they take care of about 45 adult women who have nowhere else to go. Walking through the compound, I noticed that many of them seemed to be mentally disabled, though very friendly and warm. The children in the orphanage had all been moved down to a lower and warmer elevation for the winter and weren’t back yet, so I didn’t get to visit the orphanage, and also I didn’t take any pictures.

So, I had a busy two-and-half days in Darjeeling, but still had lots of time to relax in my fireplace heated room and on the breathtaking terraces of Windamere, to shop for tea, to walk the mall and to drink tea, of course. From Windamere I went to Sikkim … but that’s another entry for another day … and then came back to the Darjeeling area (to Kurseong) for my last day in the north-east. In Kurseong, I met the “king” of Darjeeling tea, and drank tea with him while sitting in his drawing room in the shadow of an enormous stuffed Bengal Tiger his grandfather had bagged. But that’s another story!

famous tea store on the mall in Darjeeling

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The passionate people of Bangalore

Mariellen — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 02:25:14 +0000

Guruji feeding elephant, after our interview, AOL ashram

During my week in Bangalore I had the good fortune to meet some very inspiring, warm and wonderful people. Bangaloreans, as a rule, tend to be friendlier and more laid-back than in other Indian cities. Until recently, Bangalore was a small sleepy town with an idyllic climate (the best in India, they say), abounding with graceful traditions such as inner-city golf, horse racing, dawn flower markets and leisurely breakfasts.

In Lal Bagh gardens

It was – and still is — known as the Garden City: the city boasts numerous large public gardens, leafy streets and endless lovely private gardens filled with sub-tropical flora and fauna. Everything sweet and beautiful grows in Bangalore, from mangoes to hibiscus flowers.

Strolling in Lal Bagh gardens

This temperate climate is one of the reasons that Bangalore attracted so many businesses — giving rise to its current economic boom and status as the Silicon Valley of India. Bangalore is no longer a backwater; it is a thriving, cosmopolitan metropolis and the evidence of this is to be found nowhere more pointedly than in its people.

Elsewhere in India, you are likely to meet people who are from a homogenous background: parents were same state, same caste; and they are likely to be married to someone from the same state, same caste. But in Bangalore, everyone I met has seems to be a mash-up.

My Casa Cottage hosts, Benjamine and Bhushan, are a mixed couple: she is French and he is Punjabi – but they have lived in Bangalore for 30 years and now consider themselves old Bangaloreans. The young woman, Sudha, I met waiting at MTR for breakfast is a Hindu Bangalorean married to a Punjabi Christian (though they have in common the fact that they had both worked in BPOs – call centres). Farheen, the elegant woman I met at the Taj West End is a Muslim woman from Bombay married to a Rajput (from Rajasthan) Hindu. My travel blogger friend Freya breaks just about every stereotype you may have about Muslim women: she wears jeans, has a short spiky haircut, and drove her motorcycle for eight months across India on a travel quest. Another travel blogger friend, Isabel, is from Toronto but lives now in Bangalore.

Freya, the traveler and social media expert

I enjoyed spending time with these people and trying to see the city through their eyes. I sat with Sudha and her family at the legendary Maravalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR), where I experienced having dosas and chai with a real Bangalorean family out for a classic breakfast treat. I walked MR Road, a central shopping street, and had a fantastic lunch on a banana leaf with Freya, who talked poignantly about the changes taking place in her beloved city (she pointed out a parkland stroll, with a cool canopy of trees, that had been cut down to build the subway (metro), which is now under construction and wreaking traffic havoc). At the Taj West End Hotel, I listed to Farheen, and other staff members, talk passionately about the lush green space and colonial heritage the hotel preserves for the city.

Farheen at the Taj West End Hotel

And here’s the other thing I noticed about Bangaloreans: passion. Everyone I talked to seemed to be passionate about their work – or about preserving old Bangalore. The chef at the Taj, Rishikesh, talked about the trees, foods and traditions of the hotel with passion (the hotel has a famous training system, completely unparalleled by any other chain, that seems to instill an impressive level of loyalty in the staff). The brothers and the general manage of the Mysore Saree Udyog talked passionately about fine silk and about preserving the craft of the traditional silk weavers. Isabel writes passionately about her India on her blog, India Outside My Window. My host Benjamine talks passionately about many things – such as Sevai, the NGO she works with, and the heritage property she preserved when she created Casa Cottage.

The most passionate person I met, though was Sri Sri Ravi Shankar (Guruji), whom I had the great honour to meet while on a day-long tour of the Art of Living ashram. Guruji, as he is known to everyone, works tirelessly (for, I heard, 22 hours per day), to provide programs for the poor, education for underprivileged and handicapped children, courses to help people reduce stress and discover their true natures, peace initiatives, preserving India’s Vedic culture and much, much more.

Sri Sri Ravi Shankar (Guruji) at AOL ashram

The Art of Living foundation is the world’s largest volunteer-run NGO. Guruji’s greatest gift could be his ability to inspire people to act selflessly for others. In person, he is gentle, soft-spoken, present, natural, and he has a devilish gleam in his eye. He works hard and obviously enjoys himself. I spent about 10 minutes interviewing him for the article I am writing on Bangalore, and had a very nice conversation with him. His answers were short, articulate and to the point; he uses only as many words as needs.

Girl at fruit market outside AOL ashram

Though he is world famous and inspires devotion in millions, I felt completely natural with him. He did not make me feel nervous or “star-struck” in any way. I think this is the greatest testament I can give him. I had heard that he is compassionate towards everyone; that he treats everyone the same way. That was my experience. For the moments I held his attention, he was completely present with me – though he is in demand by many, many people at any given time. People line up to catch a glimpse of him. He works with top politicians, the UN, other spiritual leaders and dedicated people all over the globe. But for 10 minutes he was completely present only with me, and he never made any attempt to end the interview. Respecting his time, I asked only the questions I had prepared and ended the interview when my questions were answered. I am deeply impressed.

The Ayurveda centre at AOL ashram, with temple in background

I am planning to publish a complete transcript of my interview with Guruji sometime in the future. In the meantime, he spoke a lot about the need for people to respect nature and the earth’s environment more. That was one of his strongest messages – and the natural countryside setting of his ashram headquarters about 20 kms outside of Bangalore is an example of his commitment to “walking his talk.” It’s a lovely place, dotted with a lake (home to two crocodiles), gardens (which can be reserved for wedding parties) and a huge outdoor ampitheatre, where thousands gather for Sunday satsang.

My hosts, Charu and Ashwiin, and I at AOL ashram

I spent the entire day in the company of Ashwin and Charu, two sweet young people who took excellent care of me. From 7 am when I met Charu for the Monday morning puja until 4:30 pm when I had my interview with Guruji, they showed me around the ashram, made sure I was comfortable and, along with Communications Director Shyam, provided me with all the information I needed about Guruji, the ashram and the activities of the Art of Living Foundation. I was impressed by all of it, including the number of Indians and foreigners who work tirelessly there, the gorgeous Ayurvedic centre and of course all the good works they do.

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