Spectacular, flawless and Indian

I felt a swell of pride and a wave of relief as I watched the truly gorgeous opening ceremonies of the Commonwealth  Games in Delhi, India on October 3, 2010. This is just a small portion, and not even the best part. You showed ‘em India! Jai Hind!

Lodhi Garden, Delhi, India

Commonwealth Games at a tipping point

In the days leading up to the 2010 Commonwealth Games, Delhi has been vilified in the western media for lack of preparedness, unclean  facilities, unfinished and potentially unsafe stadiums (a bridge collapsed, injuring dozens) and security lapses. The international community called it a “fiasco” and is putting a lot of pressure on India to rectify the situation. I feel heart-broken about this because I know and love the city of Delhi; and it pains me to see that the western media seems to take particular glee in exposing the “filthy” conditions. Sports columnist Stephen Brunt in Canada’s national Globe and Mail newspaper wrote a very thoughtful column about the situation, a column that should have been in the front section of the newspaper: Huge shadow looms over New Delhi. (more…)

Poetry in motion

I love taking the train in India. It’s a great way to see the country, meet people and generally slow down your trip. Indian Railways is the world’s largest employer and the train system is massive and complex. You can book online on the IRTCT site and find great tips on Figuring out India Rail Travel on the wonderful The Planet D site.

I have many memories of watching India’s sun-baked landscape slide by, but here are two of my favourite train ride stories. (more…)

Taj Mahal, India

India is a vast and beautiful country, filled with world heritage sites, throbbing megalopolises, sacred pilgrimage routes, tropical beaches and snow-capped mountains. But along with the ubiquitous tourist draws such as the Taj Mahal, the forts and palaces of Rajasthan and the intricately carved temples of Tamil Nadu, India is home to a very well-trodden backpacking trail.

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Me, during Diwali puja in the family prayer room, Delhi

Authentic travel in India

I have been thinking about the concept of authentic travel for the past few days, ever since seeing the 76-second Travel Show with Robert Reid on this subject. He actually filmed one shot for the show at TBEX, the travel bloggers conference, and I was one of the audience members loudly saying “no, it’s not” in response to his statement: all travel is the quest for difference and the more exotic the better. But even though I went along with the gag, for the video, I do think a lot of people go to India because they perceive it to be so different and exotic. (more…)

The great Abida Parveen

It’s Video Friday on BreatheDreamGo. When I was in Delhi, India in February 2010, I attended a truly spectacular Sufi Music Festival at Humayun’s Tomb, one of Delhi’s three UNESCO World Heritage sites. It was a magical night and I wrote about it on my blog post Delights of Delhi. This is the Janis Joplin of Sufi Music, Abida Parveen. She is a mesmerizing Pakistani singer who was the main draw for the thousands of people camped out under the stars that night. Enjoy!

Holi, the Festival of Colour

It’s video Friday on BreatheDreamGo, and today you get two videos — both of Holi, the Festival of Colour. This is a huge festival in India, celebrated all over the country, to mark the start of spring. People throw coloured powder and water at each other and drink bhang lassi to really get things going. I’ve been in India three times for Holi. I took thse videos in Delhi at a private club. Much fun was had by all.

Another video, of Holi players dragging each other through the mud. More fun than it looks!

I took this video the evening I went to the Ravi Shankar Centre in Delhi, India (February 2010). Ravi Shankar and his daughter Anoushka Shankar were hosting a dance and music festival in honour of George Harrison’s birthday. He would have been 67 on February 25, 2010.

Shalini Patnaik, Odissi Dancer, Delhi

In the park, Delhi

Delhi often gets a bad rap, especially by tourists (and Mumbaikers!). But if you live here, or stay in one of the nicer areas and take time to get to know the city, you will find that Delhi has many lovely green spaces, excellent restaurants and cafes, shopping opportunities galore and a rich cultural life (not to mention a plethora of historical sites, five-star hotels, spas, universities, spiritual centres and much more). Delhi is, after all, the capital of India and home to the diplomatic community. It is a sophisticated city full of possibilities – once you get past the heat, air pollution, crowds and chaotic traffic conditions, of course. (more…)

mandir in the park, South Delhi

I arrived in Delhi on January 29, 2010 to begin my fourth trip to India. This time, more than any other, it really felt like coming home. I woke up this morning to a soft breeze, sunshine, the smell of cooking spices coming from the kitchen and the melodious sounds of the vegetable sellers calling out as they bicycle through the neighbourhood. An early spring Sunday morning in Delhi is a delightful thing.

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