http://breathedreamgo.com/2009/08/10-tips-for-women-traveling-in-india/ http://breathedreamgo.com/2009/08/10-tips-for-women-traveling-in-india/#comments Mon, 31 Aug 2009 16:38:02 +0000 Mariellen http://breathedreamgo.com/?p=814
[NOTE: Originally published on Journeywoman, July 2009.] 1. Wear “salwar kameez” Aside from good walking shoes and sandals, a one-piece bathing suit and cotton bras and underwear – or, if you prefer, the synthetic kind that wicks away sweat – don’t bring any clothes to India. If you land in Delhi, head straight to one of the Fabindia outlets and stock up on inexpensive cotton “suits.” The three-piece suit (in Hindi, salwar kameez) consists of a long or short tunic over fitted or wide-legged pants, topped with a long scarf, called a ...

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[NOTE: Originally published on Journeywoman, July 2009.]

Moi, in salwar kameez, at Kanyakumari - the very southern tip of India

1. Wear “salwar kameez”

Aside from good walking shoes and sandals, a one-piece bathing suit and cotton bras and underwear – or, if you prefer, the synthetic kind that wicks away sweat – don’t bring any clothes to India. If you land in Delhi, head straight to one of the Fabindia outlets and stock up on inexpensive cotton “suits.” The three-piece suit (in Hindi, salwar kameez) consists of a long or short tunic over fitted or wide-legged pants, topped with a long scarf, called a dupatta. These outfits suit the climate, the need for modesty and will help you fit in, mitigating your status as a moving target for gawkers, touts and beggars.

2.  Carry a long scarf

Even if you don’t opt for wearing the costume preferred by many women in India, the “suit” or salwar kameez, always travel with a long scarf made of light-weight fabric. It will come in handy for situations where modesty will be more convenient and allow you to go into mosques, gurdwaras and more traditionally minded Hindu temples.

Rawla Guest House, Jaipur

3. Rawla guest house in Jaipur

Jas Vilas Hotel in posh Bani Park, Jaipur is a favourite accommodation option, a real gem, but it is on the expensive side and often full. The owner’s niece, Sanyogita – who is a Rajput royal – recently opened a comfortable and gracious guesthouse in her lovely home. The Rawla, also in Bani Park, offers modern amenities, good food, and, best of all, Sanyogita’s company and advice. Sanyogita is a charming hostess who knows Jaipur like the back of her hand.

4. Bring tissue and hand sanitizer

In India, I never go out for the day without a mini pack or two of tissues, a small bottle of hand disinfectant, a cell phone and an iPod shuffle. I use the cell phone to call a friend and report the number of the taxi, as I get in, and so that the driver can hear me. (If no one answers, I pretend!) In markets and bazaars, I sometimes turn up the iPod so that I can’t hear the aggressive vendors, and they eventually leave me alone.

5. TripAdvisor

Check TripAdvisor.com for recommendations and tips from fellow travelers.

Ganges View Hotel terrace, Varanasi

6. Hotel Ganges View, Varanasi

I was very glad that I stayed at the Hotel Ganges View, Assi Ghat, in Varanasi. Aside from being a comfortable and safe place to stay, it also features a communal dining experience in the gracious dining room. At dinner, I met other women traveling alone, and a couple of us went on to Delhi together, sharing some of the expenses.

7. Yoga capital: Rishikesh

Rishikesh is a wonderful destination for a woman traveling alone in India who is interested in health, wellness, yoga or spirituality. The “yoga capital of the world” is a relatively serene town that meanders along the jewel-green Ganges River as it cascades through a beautiful valley among the Himalayan foothills. There are many safe accommodation options in ashrams (such as my fave, the Anand Prakash Yoga Ashram) and guesthouses and lots of opportunity to take yoga classes, study and meet other women traveling alone.

8. IndiaMike.com

IndiaMike.com a great online resource, packed with destination information, travel articles and forums on many topics relating to traveling or living in India. You can pose very specific questions and chances are good that a friendly and knowledgeable fellow-traveler will respond.

9. Makemytrip.com

Makemytrip.com is an Indian travel site that offers information and can help you plan your itinerary and book plane, train and bus tickets as well as hotel and homestay accommodation.

open-air dining room at Shinshiva Ayruvedic Resort, Kerala

10. Shinshiva Ayruvedic Resort, Kerala

One of my favourite Indian experiences was staying for two weeks at Shinshiva Ayruvedic Resort in south Kerala (about 8 kms south of busy Kovalam Beach). The Shinshiva is a small resort that features thatched-roof cottages, an open-air Ayurvedic dining room, a perfect cliff-top setting overlooking the Arabian sea and magical sunsets AND authentic Ayurvedic treatments such as one-hour-long hot oil massages performed by two young women working in rhythmic harmony. Also a good place to meet other women travelers, it is a favourite destination for Europeans.

Copyright Mariellen Ward 2009

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http://breathedreamgo.com/2009/08/dos-and-donts-in-india/ http://breathedreamgo.com/2009/08/dos-and-donts-in-india/#comments Tue, 18 Aug 2009 15:04:49 +0000 Mariellen http://johannesen.ca/bdg/?p=570
Do: - Go to the Taj Mahal. Yes, it’s worth it. It may be one of the few times in your life when all the hype and hyperbole actually fails to capture the spectacular beauty of the real thing. - Take the train. Traveling by train in India is an adventure. Indian Railway is the world’s biggest employer (1.2 million employees) and everyone takes the train, from ministers to farmers. It takes a bit of time to master the class system (2AC is a good choice); the new online ticket system really ...

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Moi, with friends, at the Taj Mahal

Do:

- Go to the Taj Mahal. Yes, it’s worth it. It may be one of the few times in your life when all the hype and hyperbole actually fails to capture the spectacular beauty of the real thing.

- Take the train. Traveling by train in India is an adventure. Indian Railway is the world’s biggest employer (1.2 million employees) and everyone takes the train, from ministers to farmers. It takes a bit of time to master the class system (2AC is a good choice); the new online ticket system really helps. You will meet lots of friendly people, no matter which class you travel.

- Learn a few words of Hindi. Most educated people speak English, but working class people and villagers rarely speak more than a few words. “Namaste” is a common greeting; “theek hai” is okay; “accha” is, is that right?; “jaao” is go away’ “chai” is tea; “paani” is water.

- Wear kurtahs (long shirts) if you are a man; and salwar kameez (also called a “suit,” it’s a long tunic over pants, and topped with a long scarf) if you are a woman.

- Take a yoga class or stay at a yoga ashram.

- Try a homestay guest house. The family is the backbone of the social system in India and you will learn a lot about the culture — and have a great time — by living with a family.

Don’t:

- Hand out money to beggars in crowded places. You will be swarmed. In fact, authorities advise that you don’t give money to anyone asking for a handout. If you want to give, by all means do so — India has many, many worthwhile charitable organizations. Your money will go to a better cause of you give it to a charitable organization. Many beggars work for gangsters, so the money you give to them, just ends up in the gangster’s pocket.

- Wear your shoes in a temple, mosque, gurdwara — any house of worship or sacred place.

- Dress in scanty or provocative clothing.

- Use your left hand for eating, if you are eating with your hands (this is especially true in South India). Also, use only your right hand for any religious or sacred gesture; and don’t point with your feet, or touch things with your feet.

- Eat street food unless you absolutely know it is hygienic. Same goes for salads.

- Take any risks with drinking water. Always ensure the water is completely safe. Buy sealed bottles only.

Copyright Mariellen Ward 2009

Thank you for reading. Please visit BreatheDreamGo or stop by my Facebook page at Breathedreamgo.

]]> http://breathedreamgo.com/2009/08/dos-and-donts-in-india/feed/ 5 http://breathedreamgo.com/2009/07/unraveling-the-significance-of-turbans/ http://breathedreamgo.com/2009/07/unraveling-the-significance-of-turbans/#comments Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:56:54 +0000 Mariellen http://breathedreamgo.wordpress.com/?p=388
In India, it is not only the flamboyant traditions and rituals that have cultural significance. Even clothing and jewelry tell stories, and the more you know, the more you are able to read between the lines. From toe rings to turbans, the clothing Indians wear denotes status, caste, marital state and much more. Knowing the basics can give you insight into the culture and also may help smooth your trip. In Rajasthan – the land where peacocks fly low over the camel-studded desert at sundown and impossibly romantic forts evoke tales ...

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Turbans in Pushkar

In India, it is not only the flamboyant traditions and rituals that have cultural significance. Even clothing and jewelry tell stories, and the more you know, the more you are able to read between the lines. From toe rings to turbans, the clothing Indians wear denotes status, caste, marital state and much more. Knowing the basics can give you insight into the culture and also may help smooth your trip.

In Rajasthan – the land where peacocks fly low over the camel-studded desert at sundown and impossibly romantic forts evoke tales of proud Rajput royals – the men are known for wearing large printed turbans in a variety of styles, shapes and colours. “Turban spotting” is a favourite tourist activity.

Lal Singh, Jaisalmer

It is said that in Rajasthan turbans change styles every 15 kilometres. They also change with the season and for various festivals. Saffron-coloured turbans are worn for weddings, white for funerals, tie-dyed black-and-red turbans are worn at the time of Diwali – the Hindu festival of lights – and green-and-pink striped turbans are worn during the monsoon.

Castes also have their own turbans. Shepherds, for example, wear red. The size and shape of turbans is also influenced by the climate. In the hotter parts of the desert state, turbans are larger and looser to help protect the wearer from the scorching sun; but in some regions, size is also influenced by the person’s position in society. When it comes to turbans, size matters.

A family on the ghats in Pushkar, Rajasthan

Women, too, wear their stories. All over India they are known for wearing layers of ornate jewelry. If possible, gold is to be worn against the skin at all times, as it is believed that gold purifies – but only above the waist! Silver is the preferred metal for ankle and toe jewelry because gold is too “pure” for the feet. For women, toe rings on both feet indicate marriage; as do ankle-bracelets on both ankles. Tradition-minded married women also place a dot of vermilion powder on their foreheads and in the centre part of their hair.

The sari is the traditional dress of Indian women, of course. Many regions are known for a particular style, fabric or method of manufacture. For example, the prized brocade silk saris of Benares are among the most costly in the country and highly coveted by brides.

Increasingly, though, women in India are adopting the salwar kameez or “suit”, which was once the costume of only Punjabis and Kashmiris. It’s a three-piece outfit: short or long tunic over tight pants (churidar) or wide pants (salwar) adorned with a long flowing scarf known as a dupatta. The tunic is also known as a kurtah and can be worn with jeans or a skirt. Men wear kurtahs, too, and for both genders they are a modest, easy-to-wear and economical choice for traveling in India.

Mariellen in salwar kameez at the Taj Mahal

Travel in India is tough enough without inviting the undue attention that scanty clothes will draw (even in the cities). Make modesty your byword and try wearing a kurtah or a “suit.” You may find you are rewarded with increased warmth, respect and even invitations to lunch.

Copyright Mariellen Ward 2009

Thank you for reading. Please visit BreatheDreamGo or stop by my Facebook page at Breathedreamgo.

]]> http://breathedreamgo.com/2009/07/unraveling-the-significance-of-turbans/feed/ 2 http://breathedreamgo.com/2008/12/packing-for-india/ http://breathedreamgo.com/2008/12/packing-for-india/#comments Mon, 08 Dec 2008 02:41:22 +0000 Mariellen http://lemonindi.wordpress.com/?p=184
My packing list for India: everything you need to know about what to bring to India - and what to leave at home.

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clothes in the Pushkar marketplace, Rajasthan

Travel light and right

We all have small secret areas of expertise, and one of mine is packing for India. I am claiming this expertise based on three facts:

1) I have packed to go from my country (Canada) to India five times,

2) I did a LOT of research before I left on my first big, six-month trip to India — and brought a LOT of stuff I never used,

3) I have packed for about a 20-25 domestic trips within India in the many months (more than a year) I have spent in the country.

So, if you will accept my qualifications, you can confidently print this list before you go. Even in the few years I have been traveling to India I have noticed you can get more and more of the things we North Americans have come to depend on. But there’s still a few things you probably want to have in your backpack — yes, backpack — just in case.

• A backpack. It doesn’t matter if you’re basically middle-aged and your motto is “mid-range” — unless you are going 5-star all the way, you will be happy you can carry everything you brought on your back. There are going to be times when the taxi can’t get closer than a 10-minute walk to the train station because of the crowds and you have to get out and hup it.
• Very comfortable sturdy shoes. India just doesn’t have the money to spend lavishly on infrastructure. The roads and sidewalks are a jagged obstacle course, and there is often an open sewer spilling its gruesome contents across your path.
• Flip-flops. For the beach, in the shower, around your hotel and in other predictable settings. Don’t go barefoot in India.
• Small bottles of hand sanitizing gel and small kleenex packets. I don’t walk out the door without these in my bag. You will find out quickly why they’re both integral.
• Deodorant, hair conditioner, tampons, sunscreen, Deet mosquito repellent, skin oil (eg almond) and condoms. I don’t know why, but I can never find these in India (not good enough quality versions, anyway).
• A sheet sleeping bag. For the train and questionable hotels.
• Good quality suitcase locks and cable. You will need to be able to use the cable to lock your bag to your train or bus seat.
• To keep as healthy as possible on the road, take heat-resistant probiotics (one per day), either oil of oregano or GSE (grapefruit seed extract), rehydration salts, tea tree oil and homeopathic remedies for digestion and respiration issues (Indian cities are highly polluted).
• Get professional advice regarding vaccinations, antiobiotics and anti-malarial medication.
• Earplugs and music player, such as iPod. You will need them, take my word for it. Don’t forget your electrical adapter.
• Digital camera. Ditto electrical adapter.
• Headlamp or good-quality small flashlight (for reading on the train and power outages)
• Resteasy bed bug spray
• Quick dry towel. I found 101 uses for this. Also useful is a sarong or piece of cloth.
• Money belt. I didn’t use it a lot, but I was glad I had it.
• A daypack and/or a small-ish bag you can carry very safely. Here in Canada, MEC makes one that’s got a wide strap and  fits under your armpit and it’s perfect for crowded situations such as bazaars and railway stations and, well, just about every where in India is crowded!
• Water bottle and small thermos. I have a great little thermos I call the “bullet.” I fill it up with tea on the road.
• Mesh laundry bag.
• Underwear. Ladies, I do not like the bras in India. I will always make sure I have a lot of comfortable cotton bras to choose from when I go. And let modesty be your guide.
• Modest clothing. It is not really a good idea to wear scanty clothes in India. I know some people do it, but I personally think it is unsafe and disrespectful. When in Rome and all that. In fact, I recommend bringing very few items of clothing and making a beeline for Fabindia (the Gap of India). Indian clothes are inexpensive, colourful, comfortable and they suit the climate and the culture. Indians will appreciate your attempt to bridge cultures and show respect and they will be even more open towards you.

Thank you for reading. Please visit BreatheDreamGo or stop by my Facebook page at Breathedreamgo.