
Lodhi Garden, New Delhi
When I was getting ready to travel to India the first time, back in 2005, I had several friends warn me: “You won’t like Delhi. It’s crowded, it’s polluted, the people are aggressive, you will be pestered to distraction.” I’d heard lots of stories about Pahar Ganj, the grubby “traveler’s ghetto;” the challenges of buying tickets and arranging any kind of transportation; the scams and the con artists; the crowds and chaos.
However, my first morning in Delhi, I walked out into the warm, December sunshine, on the big, white marble terrace of my friend’s home in South Delhi and was greeted by the family, who offered me breakfast. Later, a man arrived with a huge bundle of gorgeous shawls and fabrics, and I sat on the terrace drinking tea, with the ladies of the family and shopped. It was all very civilized and I felt I had arrived in heaven, not the hell that I was promised. (more…)

Photo courtesy San Sharma
Diwali means “rows of lighted lamps” and it is also called the Festival of Light. It is the most enthusiastically celebrated festival in India — which is saying a lot! Diwali is the equivalent of Christmas — a big, festive celebration that brings families together and is the highlight of the holiday season. There are five days of festivities, each marked with different pujas (prayers) and rituals.
I love Diwali, and though I have only spent one Diwali in India, I remember it fondly. I went shopping with Ajay’s mother for gifts, decorations, flowers and sweets a few days before, and on the morning of Diwali she had me decorating the family mandir before my eyes were completely open. Later, I helped fill hundreds of small diyas with oil and wicks, and then place and light them around the terrace and down the stairs, etc. In the early evening we had a puja in the mandir, which was my favourite part of the entire day. And at night, we joined the millions of other Delhi-ites blasting fireworks and firecrackers into the night sky. It was deafening and created hazardous smog, but I appreciated the gusto with which people were celebrating.
There are lots of other places to celebrate Diwali in India; read on for some suggestions culled from Breathedreamgo Twitter and Facebook friends. (more…)
Everyone’s invited to the A Celebration of India at the Drake Hotel in Toronto on Monday, September 26, 2011 starting at 7 pm. Thanks to Ivy Knight, the creator and host of 86′d, a weekly Monday-night food event at the trendy Drake Hotel, 1150 Queen St. W., for collaborating with me to create an India-themed food night.
You will be treated to tasting portions of Indian food from Apalla Fine Indian Cuisine, 811 Queen St. W. in Toronto (647-428-7119). Apalla is an intimate restaurant with a romantic atmosphere run by executive chef and owner Rajwant, who creates fresh, flavourful Indian food that is authentic in taste yet modern in presentation. I went crazy for the Vegetable Pakoras – the best I have had ou
tside of India – and also for the the Paneer Korma (fresh cheese in rich curry sauce), Aloo Gobi (potato cauliflower) and the Saag Paneer (spinach cheese), which is one of my favourite dishes (and I am very picky!). It’s a great place to go for delicious Indian food — but if you genuinely like to eat Indian food that is Indian-level spicy (like me!!), you have to ask for it. Otherwise it is made to Canadian tastes.
You will also be delighted with tasting portions of Bombay street food — with a modern twist! — from Arvinda’s Artfully Created Indian Spice Blends. Arvinda’s is named after Arvinda Chauhan, owner and instructor of Arvinda’s Healthy Gourmet Indian Cooking school. Arvinda invented unique spice blends for her students “who were looking for a truly authentic Indian cooking experience.” Arvinda gets a lot of help from her family, including her daughter Preena Chauhan who writes the Teaspoon of Turmeric cooking blog — a must read if you want to know how to make fresh Ontario peaches Indian-style, find out the healthful benefits of turmeric and other inspiring recipes and ideas. I was given a tin of their gourmet spice blends when I went to the press opening of the Maharaja exhibit at the Art Gallery of Ontario last year, and became an instant fan. I love the fresh, authentic taste of their blends and also their tasteful package design. Arvinda’s brings taste to everything they do! (more…)
The photo above is from the GoIndia.About.com site — which has a great guide to Ganesh Chaturthi — how the idols are made, where the best ones are located, etc. The editor, Sharell Cook, lives in Mumbai and stays on top of happenings there and in India in general. It’s a great resource for news, information and fascinating stories. Following are the other five top photos. (more…)
Masala!Mehndi!Masti! is the premier Indian cultural event in Toronto, and each year it seems to get bigger and better. I’ve been going for about five years, and I have seen Nandita Das and Lisa Ray interviewed; I’ve watched Bollywood and Odissi dancing; I’ve listened to sitar music and Autorickshaw; I’ve bought jewelry and eaten dosas, and, perhaps most of all, I’ve enjoyed a weekend of immersing myself in the masala milieu. Every year, it’s a bit like a mini-trip to India.
Festival founder and director Abhishek Mathur wrote, “Just like a sacred thread, M!M!M! ties and binds the diverse parts of the culture, connecting and creating continuity, while not compromising the uniqueness of each part.” And that is exactly what it is like. At the opening reception, I came to realize what a labour of love M!M!M! is for Abhishek and his dedicated team. I was stunned to find out this massive festival, with three solid days of programming, is completely volunteer run. No wonder they continually take time out to thank their sponsors (including OMNI TV, Toyota, WestJet, TourismToronto etc.) (more…)
This August and September, I will be talking about India at three events in Toronto. If you’re in town, please stop by and say hello!
August 15 is Independence Day in India. On the stroke of midnight, 1947, India severed ties with her British colonizer and became a sovereign nation. It was one of the great historical moments of the 20th century (here’s some photos from that day). The first prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru’s famous “tryst with destiny” speech — delivered from the Red Fort in Delhi at midnight — still raises goosebumps.
Each year Independence Day is celebrated in India and throughout the Indian diaspora. Toronto is of course a major centre of Indian culture and the celebration this year includes a parade and an all-day event on Saturday, August 13 at Yonge-Dundas Square, organized by Panorama India.
I will be there, in a booth with two other writers: Jasmine D’Costa, author of Blood is Thicker than Curry, and historical fiction author Waheed Rabbani. Please stop by and say hello, and get a taste of Indian culture — including music and food of course!
When: Saturday, August 13, 2011
Where: Dundas Sqaure, Toronto
Time: 11 am – 8 pm
FREE ADMISSION (more…)

Detail from a wedding in Lucknow. Bride and groom exchange beautiful floral garlands. Photograph by Andrew Adams.
“I grew up in a small Canadian town,” Andrew told me. “Indian weddings, and all the rich cultural traditions, were completely new to me, and very exciting.”
Andrew studied photography at Sheridan College in Oakville, Ontario, and apprenticed with a fashion photographer who shot weddings on the weekend. He learned to shoot weddings from her and soon branched out on his own. He loves the creative freedom wedding photography affords, and also the freedom of running his own business. After about three years of shooting weddings, he started to specialize in Indian weddings. That was 12 years ago, and he’s very excited about where this specialty has taken him.
He has shot Indian weddings in Delhi, Goa, Jaipur, Lucknow, Bangalore, Kerala, and Udaipur amongst other places. “Shooting Indian weddings gives me the opportunity for travel, to go to new locations and meet new people; that’s part of the passion for me,” he said. “I feel full of life and energy when I’m in India.”
Indian culture, as exhibited in Indian weddings, is an endless source of fascination. “They are very colourful, very vibrant,” Andrew said. “There’s lots happening, lots of energy, lots of emotion. I love the beauty of the rituals and the close family bonds.” (more…)

The sumptous decor added to the glamour of the IIFA Awards after party, at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel
Bollywood in Toronto
Perhaps it’s not exactly the same as Eloise at the Plaza … but staying at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel for the International Indian Film Academy (IIFA) Awards in Toronto did make me feel I was on an awfully wonderful adventure. I was a guest in the hotel from Tuesday, June 20 to Sunday, June 26, and totally immersed myself in all the preparations, behind-the-scenes activities, press conferences, events, star sightings and parties taking place in the hotel during those five days. (more…)

Bollywood actress Mallika Sherawat at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel during the IIFA Awards. Photo courtesy Andrew Adams Photography
The pillars of excitement at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel during IIFA were definitely the stars. Every time a Bollywood star entered or left the hotel, a bubble of excitement burst in the lobby, resulting in a chorus of near-hysterical cheers. I had a media pass, so I was able to gain access to off-limit areas, and it became normal for me to see stars like Anil Kapoor, Sonu Sood, Ritesh Deshmukh, Arshad Warsi, Priyanka Chopra, Boman Irani, R. Madhavan, Dia Mirza, Zayed Khan, Sharman Joshi, Shabana Azmi and Harman Baweja milling around the hotel. (more…)

Bollywood actor Sonu Sood and fans in the lobby of the Fairmont Royal York Hotel during the IIFA Awards. Photo courtesy Andrew Adams of Katha Images.
Bollywood in Toronto
Staying at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel, the host hotel for the International Indian Film Academy (IIFA) Awards in Toronto, gave me a unique and close-up look at both the behind-the-scenes action and the fans. I have lived in India, so I was not at all surprised by the fan frenzy: Indian movie stars have the biggest and most loyal fan followings in the world. Hands down. No comparison. (more…)