Discovering the heart of Canada in Ottawa

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A new Canadian citizen seeing the Parliament Buildings for the first time

Canada’s beautiful capital city, Ottawa is the perfect place to begin your Canadian travels

WE TURNED THE CORNER on a side street in Ottawa, and boom, there they were, in all their High Victorian Gothic glory, embellished by gargoyles and grotesques, topped by green-tinged copper and intricate spires, every stone of Canada’s Parliament Buildings inspiring awe and patriotism. I watched my friend Ajay stand quietly before them. Originally from India, Ajay became a Canadian citizen only a year ago, and he was seeing Ottawa and the Parliament Buildings for the first time.

Ottawa is Canada’s capital, a small city of about one million people that spreads out from the scenic place where three rivers meet. This is the political heart of Canada, a storied area with sweeping views, steeped in history, and the perfect place to begin travels in Canada.

Ottawa is beautiful, the best of Canada is here.”

Ajay and I spent about three days exploring Ottawa, and learning about the history of the country and some of the many attractions this city has to offer. “Ottawa is beautiful, the best of Canada is here,” he said. Here’s our personal guide to exploring Ottawa for tourists, newcomers, first time visitors and new Canadians.

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Inside the stunning Library of Parliament


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Canada 101: Parliament Hill and the Parliament Buildings

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The Changing of the Guard ceremony

Parliament Hill is a great place to start your Ottawa tour. That’s what we did. We walked around the entire hill, on the promenade that runs along the Ottawa River shoreline. You get great views of the Parliament Buildings from below and the Canadian Museum of History across the river. Eventually you get to the mouth of the Rideau Canal, where it meets the river. It’s a scenic spot bordered on one side by the majestic Fairmont Chateau Laurier Hotel and on the other by the modest, but very interesting, ByTown Museum.

After our walk around the back of the Parliament Buildings, we walked to the front, and stood near the Centennial Flame. In front of us was Centre Block, with East and West Blocks on either side. It’s a very grand site, massive Victorian Gothic buildings flanking a huge expanse of lawn.

The House of Commons, Senate, Library of Parliament, Peace Tower and Memorial Chamber are in the Centre Block, and this is what most tourists come to see. The Parliament Buildings offer free guided tours of the Centre Block and the East Block, on a first come, first served basis. You can learn more by visiting the Parliament of Canada website’s Visitor Information page.

We loved the tour. Our tour guide Andrew was very friendly and informative and he told many compelling stories. A highlight was walking into the eye-popping Library of Parliament. This gorgeous building was saved from the fire that ravaged the Centre Block in 1916 because the librarian had the smarts to shut the heavy iron doors. It houses more than half a million books and documents for use by senators and members of Parliament.

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The Cloth Hall, Ypres by James Kerr-Lawson

Another highlight is the War Paintings in the Senate Chamber. I was particularly moved by a painting from the Battle of Ypres because my grandfather was there as a Canadian soldier. Ajay loved going up to the top of the Peace Tower, which offers 360 degree views of the Ottawa region. The final stop was the Memorial Chamber, another moving moment, as this sunny, uplifting room, the colours of heaven, contains the names of all Canadian soldiers who fell in battle. The word Ypres is inscribed in this room, and I had a silent thoughtful moment remembering my grandfather again.

From the outset, Parliament Hill was designed not just as a workplace for parliamentarians, but also as a place where everyone could come to meet, talk or just relax in a beautiful outdoor setting.”

The next morning, we went back to Parliament Hill to witness the Changing of the Guard ceremony. Visitors to Canada might be surprised to see our take on this British custom, with dozens of guards in scarlet tunics and bear fur hats (it takes an entire bear skin to make one hat!) marching on the lawns of Parliament Hill. This colourful ceremony takes place every day at 10 am from the beginning of June through to the end of August. It’s a fun way thing to watch before touring the buildings.

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Ajay in the Memorial Chamber, Parliament Buildings

A river runs through it … and so do many trails and pathways

One of the reasons Ottawa is such a beautiful and scenic city is its location on the mighty Ottawa River. On our second evening in Ottawa, we took a boat ride at dusk on the Ottawa River and loved the cool breeze (it was a very hot day!), the beautiful views of the sunset and also all the landmarks we passed. Ajay and I were impressed with the young woman who was providing a guided narration as we boated along.

We passed the Parliament Buildings, the Supreme Court, the Museum of History, the National Gallery of Canada, the Royal Canadian Mint, the Prime Minister’s residence, Rideau Falls and many more places of interest, and learned a lot of interesting facts and stories about each. After disembarking, we walked along the Rideau Canal and enjoyed the early evening lights shimmering on the water and lighting up many impressive buildings, like the Fairmont Chateau Laurier — designed to look like a French chateau.

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The Rideau Canal, locks and the Fairmont Chateau Laurier

We spent much of our three days in Ottawa walking along bike trails and pathways, and in lively urban areas like the Sparks Street pedestrian mall and the ByWard Market. The ByWard Market is Ottawa’s oldest neighbourhood and has housed an open-air market since the 1840s. It’s a very fun part of town, one of the best places to find a wide variety of restaurants, shops and food stalls.

In fact, we even went on a walking tour. Last time I was in Ottawa, I went on an Irish heritage walking tour, as I was researching my Irish ancestral roots at the time. This time, we went on an Indigenous Walks tour. We met our guide Christine at the Human Rights Monument and walked through downtown Ottawa, stopping at points of interest while she told us about the history, culture and characters that helped shape Canada from an Indigenous perspective. It was an entertaining and fascinating tour, and I especially loved the art and sculptures we saw.

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Ajay, the spider and the church: outside the National Gallery of Canada

The tour ended near the National Gallery of Canada, and we escaped from the searing heat (I was almost hotter in Ottawa then I have ever been in India!) to visit this monumental building, which houses the finest collection of Canadian art in the country. It’s interesting to walk through the Canadian rooms, which are arranged chronologically, and watch the art change from a European style to very uniquely Canadian imagery when the Group of Seven burst onto the scene in the 1920s. Make sure you spend some time in the Group of Seven rooms and look out for paintings by their contemporaries Tom Thomson and Emily Carr. Canada’s most iconic painting, The Jack Pine by Tom Thomson is here.

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The Jack Pine by Tom Thomson. Image courtesy National Gallery of Canada

After walking through many of the galleries, we relaxed with a pot of tea in the Cafe in the Great Hall, under the towering glass cupolas. The sweeping views of Parliament Hill, the Ottawa River and Nepean Point made for a great way to end our tour of Ottawa.

Thanks so much to VIA Rail, Ottawa Tourism and Marriott Hotels for hosting us and taking care of us during our stay. We loved taking the train from Toronto to Ottawa. It’s comfortable and convenient, with WiFi on board, and the selection of foods and beverages in business class was impressive. We felt pampered the entire journey, which is about 4 or 5 hours each way.

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On the VIA Rail train to Ottawa enjoying WiFi

We also loved staying at the Marriott Hotel on Kent Street. You simply cannot beat the location, on Sparks Street, and near the Supreme Court of Canada and Parliament Hill. The Marriott makes the perfect base for exploring Ottawa because of the location and also because the hotel has such helpful staff and excellent amenities. Here are the top 5 things I loved about my room at the Marriott:

  1. The comfortable beds. It was like falling into a cloud. We slept like a dream.
  2. The people! The staff was, to a person, incredibly warm and helpful.
  3. The Concierge suite on the 26th floor. It was so convenient to drop by for breakfast and late afternoon snacks each day.
  4. The full-sized desk with charging station. It was like they knew I was there to blog!
  5. Our view! We had a great view of downtown Ottawa and Parliament Hill from our window.
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The Changing of the Guard on Parliament Hill

A few fast Ottawa facts

♠ Ottawa is located in Eastern Ontario, and was originally a thriving lumber town thanks to its location at the confluence of three rivers: the Ottawa, Rideau and Gatineau.

♠ About 20 per cent of the city is French speaking, and English and French idioms are often mixed up (resulting in something like Hinglish in India).

♠ The Rideau Canal was named a UNESCO world heritage site in 2007. In winter, it becomes the world’s largest naturally frozen skating rink at 7.8 kilometres.

♠ Beavertails are a local specialty, fried dough pastry that’s hand-stretched to resemble a beaver tail. They are particularly filling and warming while skating on the Rideau Canal.

♠  Ottawa’s Royal Canadian Mint manufactures the purest gold in the world — 99.999 per cent pure. Visitors to the Mint can watch money in the making and see $1 million in gold up close.

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Where the Rideau Canal meets the Ottawa River


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Ajay on Sparks Street

Travel blogs about Ottawa

Vanessa Chiasson is an Ottawa based travel writer whose work can be seen at TurnipseedTravel.com. She says the best coffee in town is the vanilla lattes at Planet Coffee, located down a hidden alley in Ottawa’s Byward Market.

Doreen Pendgracs is a travel writer who has been immersed in the world of fine chocolate for the past six years. Follow her chocolate travels at Chocolatour. Doreen’s favourite thing about Ottawa is the magnificent collection of historical buildings and the contemporary vibe of the city.

Margarita Ibbott blogs at DownshiftingPRO about her family, her life and her travels. Since her daughter attends University of Ottawa, this beautiful city has become a favourite haunt. Her suggestion to understanding law & politics in Canada: visit the Supreme Court of Canada and Parliament Hill.

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Canadian Museum of History at sunset from the Ottawa River

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8 Responses to Discovering the heart of Canada in Ottawa

  1. Vanessa September 3, 2015 at 9:38 am #

    Art lovers will be excited to know that you can easily hike to the spot where Tom Thomson painted the Jack Pine. It’s in Algonquin Provincial Park in Achray campground and it’s just a few hours’ drive outside of the city. That’s one of the best things about Ottawa – there is so much to see in the city center and you’re perfectly situated to explore nature as well!

    • Mariellen Ward September 3, 2015 at 10:25 am #

      Thanks for the comment, and the tip on finding The Jack Pine. I will need to write another post entirely about all the ways to enjoy nature in Ottawa and the surrounding region. It’s one of the city’s attractions, that’s for sure! (And so is having martinis with friends in the Marriott Hotel bar 🙂 🙂 🙂
      Mariellen Ward recently posted..Celebrating 6 years of BreathedreamgoMy Profile

  2. Same Day Agra Tour By Train September 4, 2015 at 2:41 am #

    Thanks for sharing the blog, I really like to discovering of the Heart of Canada. The best journey to enjoying in Ottawa. I really enjoying to reading this blog. Great Advice!

  3. Ontario-Travel-Secrets September 5, 2015 at 9:34 pm #

    Great story. How did you get the pic of the interior of the gorgeous library? When I was there a couple of years ago, they didn’t allow photography in that room… big disappointment.

  4. Izy Berry September 9, 2015 at 5:25 pm #

    i really like this post but i have to said to you i never think of Canada to a place to visit but now i can said that it isa great option to go
    Izy Berry recently posted..Great golfing holidays in EuropeMy Profile

  5. Alouise September 19, 2015 at 2:40 pm #

    Great resources on visiting Ottawa. I’ve visited Ottawa a couple of times, but I don’t think I spent my time as wisely there as I could have. I definitely need a revisit of Canada’s capital.
    Alouise recently posted..Small Town Theater | Passion Play in DrumhellerMy Profile

  6. Stefan September 28, 2015 at 7:42 pm #

    Hi Mariellen! I actually found your blog when I was looking up some info about travelling in India and I decided to check it out. I loved your post here about Ottawa! I recently wrote a post after my visit in the summer which you can read here: http://www.stefanrtw.com/things-to-do-in-ottawa-canada/ but your post gave me a few more ideas and some inspiration on some things I want to explore and check out when I had back in early 2016.

    I wanted to ask you about the train. Was it comfortable? Was the WiFi any good? I’m only wondering because I drove last time from Toronto and I’d love to take the train and relax rather than stress out during the 5-hour drive.

    Thanks!
    Stefan recently posted..The Best Laptop for Travel BloggingMy Profile

  7. Lee-Ann April 25, 2016 at 6:31 am #

    We are moving to Vancouver Island later this year and I have been looking at places to visit in Canada… Ottawa looks amazing with a very British and French flare to it….. It reminded me of London and Paris, 2 fantastic cities steeped in history. Thank you for your inspiration!!

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