My seventh trip to India begins

Ladakh, India, India travel, travel in India, solo female travel, Buddhism. monastery, Tibet

Staring out at the Ladakh immensity from Thiksey Monastery chortens.

Travel in India: The highs, the lows, the changes

I ARRIVED IN INDIA for the seventh time on September 2, 2014. Each time I come here, I don’t know what to expect. For one thing, I’m different. It’s a different me that arrives each time. For another, India is different. India is changing, and probably faster than any society on earth.

When I first started travelling in India nine years ago, the Delhi airport was basically a big, old shed and women almost universally wore swathes of fabric, in the Indian style. Now the Delhi airport is new and glitzy and could be in Houston; and many young women here wear jeans and t-shirts.

In my own journey as an India traveller, I too am changing. When I first travelled in here, I was completely mesmerized by the novelty, and all the things about India that foreigners usually cite (colour, chaos, crowds, spirituality, historic sites, etc). I had a long and fruitful honeymoon stage. India was my muse, and I wrote thousands of words. But like all love affairs, it has become complicated.

On the continuum from Alice in Wonderland towards Paul Theroux, I am moving towards a much more realistic, unvarnished and sometimes grumpy view of travel in India. (Also a grumpy view of trying to make a living as a travel writer and blogger ….but that’s another story … and I will be announcing a new venture soon to hopefully make this a more prosperous career path…)

India, India travel, travel in India, solo female travel, Ugrasen ki Baoli, Delhi,

Ugrasen ki Baoli is an ancient stepwell in the heart of Delhi. Very evocative place.

The world’s most transformative travel destination

I am still besotted by what I see as the essence of the experience of travel in India — radical transformation. India will change you, if you let it. It will challenge you on just about every level and “broaden your horizons,” as my Mom used to say. It may also give you a renewed sense of faith in the universe, in the mysterious workings of the cosmos and the underlying truth that connects us all.

Sometimes, when you are completely frustrated, exhausted, disoriented and sensory-overloaded, India will surprise you with a moment. The veil draws back, a woman smiles, a man hands you a flower, the sky turns pink, incense and temple bells waft by on the breeze. Everything is okay, and it always was, and always will be. (Read: The dust of India)

These are the “magic moments,” and what we Indophiles live for. But they don’t come easy. On this trip, it took me quite a long time to recover from jet lag, and a much longer time to recover from culture lag. I had to re-adjust to being in India, and I was rusty. I had to re-remember so many things, from shutting my mouth tight in the shower to negotiating for autorickshaw rides.

India, India travel, travel in India, solo female travel, Durga Puja, Delhi,

Durga Puja in Chittarajan Park, Delhi

But more than that, I had to get in contact with the Indian version of me. I am a different person in India than I am in Canada — I have to be to live and travel here with any ease. From my perspective, the Indian worldview is much more fluid and present-centred; more relationship oriented and less achievement driven; much less controlling and and more accepting, it accords a much larger role to the presence of the unseen. “God knows best,” I have heard people in India say many, many times.

So, my first few weeks in India were quite challenging, as I slowly adjusted to being here while travelling constantly. I have not blogged as much as I used to, as I am so busy travelling, working and also posting to social media. To follow my travels in real time, follow me on:

Travel highs and magic moments

My travels in India on this trip has had plenty of highs and lows, which is par for the course. But I got off to a good start. I was given a business class upgrade from Jet Airways, and a coveted single seat. This is a great configuration for the solo traveller: when you press the button to make your seat a bed, you are alone, with no one sleeping beside you. Being able to lie down and sleep really makes the very long journey from Canada (almost 24 hours door-to-door) much more bearable.

As always, I loved the service from Jet Airways and of course the food, which I think is the best on any airline in the world. They serve both Indian and continental, and I can tell you, the Indian is truly authentic and tasty. I also love the Jet Airways crew, who are open and friendly in the unique Indian way that I cherish. In a quiet moment, I had a long and involved chat about Bollywood with one of the cabin crew.

India, India travel, travel in India, solo female travel, Delhi,

Arriving at IGI Airport in Delhi.

My next high happened when I arrived at the shiny new Indira Gandhi International airport in Delhi. While flying, I was thinking a lot, for some reason, about my first trip to India, back in 2005, and how anxious I felt about all the unknowns facing me. I remember peering out the window into the midnight blackness and realizing I had no idea what to expect from India and from my impending six-month journey.

When I arrived in India for the first time, on December 5, 2005, an old acquaintance was waiting for me at the airport. I hadn’t seen Ajay in 13 or 14 years, could barely remember what he looked like. But there he was, and he drove me back to his family home in South Delhi, and he and his family became a very important part of that trip — and my life, from then till now. (Read: A South Delhi neighbourhood)

This time, by chance, Ajay was in India ahead of me, and waiting for me as I arrived for the seventh time. When I walked out, with my luggage, and saw him standing at the exit, and smelled the sultry, acrid air of Delhi, I had a full-circle feeling. Life has seemed so chaotic and challenging in the years since I first landed in India, I didn’t expect this lovely, satisfying feeling; as if everything was unfolding perfectly, and I was exactly where I was supposed to be. It was a gift, this feeling, and it hasn’t left me. It feels like some era ended when I landed this time, on September 2, and a new era has begun.

Thikana is Delhi’s top guest house

My third high arrived shortly thereafter. One of my readers put me in touch with Atul and Sheetal of Thikana in Gulmohar Park, South Delhi and they very kindly hosted me for my first week in Delhi. Thikana is one of the leading guest houses of Delhi, a place I had long wanted to visit, and I wasn’t disappointed. Regular readers will know that I love Delhi, it’s my home-away-from home and my favourite city in India. (Read: Delhi Guide: My top tips)

India, India travel, travel in India, solo female travel, Delhi, Thikana, guest house, hotel

One of the many lovely public spaces at Thikana guest house in SOuth Delhi.

I can now absolutely recommend Thikana to readers. It’s exquisitely decorated in high Indian style, the rooms are comfortable and modern, the location is good (closer to a metro station would make it ideal) in one the most upscale colonies of South Delhi and best of all is Sheetal and Atul, the hosts and owners. They, and their staff, go out of their way to make people feel at home and comfortable, and to answer questions and help with anything and everything, from laundry to bank machines to restaurant recommendations.

Plus, they’re fun. On my second or third night, Atul invited me to have drinks on their roof top terrace, a great place to hang out. Two other guests joined, I put my duty-free bottle of Bombay Sapphire on the table, and we enjoyed the very warm Delhi evening, under a waxing moon.

Ladakh, India, India travel, travel in India, solo female travel, Buddhism. monastery, Tibet

Outside Leh, surrounded by Himalayan mountains, at sunset.

The challenge of jet lag and high altitude

My first low was jet leg. I cannot exaggerate how bad the jet lag is, for me anyway, that results from travelling across half the world. I was a wreck, and I made the mistake of not giving myself enough time to recover. I ran around getting a SIM card, an Internet dongle, and running errands, and then gave a presentation at the Indian Association of Tour Operators convention only three days after landing.

My second low was the Kashmir floods. I was scheduled to fly to Kashmir on September 6, but the floods were worsening and the situation was growing dire. My own disappointment about not getting to Kashmir was dwarfed of course by the humanitarian crisis. The floods in Srinagar Valley, exactly where I had hoped to go, were the worst in 60 years.

The trip to Kashmir and Ladakh was hosted and arranged by India Tourism, so I met with them in Delhi and rearranged my itinerary. Luckily, a seat was available to fly directly to Ladakh, and away I went, to the top of the world.

Ladakh, India, India travel, travel in India, solo female travel, Buddhism. monastery, Tibet, Thiksey

Thiksey Monastery is one of the treasures of Ladakh.

On the roof of the world

If you look at a map of India, Ladakh is right at the top, the part that sticks up and is surrounded by Pakistan, China and several of the “stan” countries. Culturally and geographically, it is tied to Tibet. Like Tibet, you feel you are on the roof of the world, and about half the population are Tibetan Buddhists (most of the rest are Shia Muslims).

The Himalayan mountain range runs through Ladakh, and the altitude of the capital city, Leh, is 3,500 metres — going up to 4,500 metres if you cross passes outside of Leh. This means, without proper acclimatization, you can develop acute mountain sickness (altitude sickness). Some people are more sensitive to AMS than others — and I, unfortunately, am one of those very sensitive people. I was sick with AMS in Colorado and Bhutan, so I took every precaution possible for Leh. Ideally, you should move slowly up to these altitudes. The sickness usually occurs when people fly to Ladakh (like I did). Seriously, do not underestimate AMS. It kills tourists every year, usually people who land and start trekking without adjusting properly first.

Research and plan your trip to Ladakh very carefully. Altitude sickness is one danger, and another is weather. It gets very cold and very snowy in Ladakh early — sometimes in late September — and passes close, airports are shut. Tourists sometimes get trapped there for days and weeks.

Ladakh, India, India travel, travel in India, solo female travel, Buddhism. monastery, Tibet, Thiksey

On top of the world at Thiksey Monastery

Summer is the ideal time to go, of course. It’s warm — up to 30 C. — and the roads are clear. When I was there, I was based in Leh for about five days, and just made day trips into the countryside to see monasteries, chortens, palaces and the stark and beautiful landscape. Ladakh is a high altitude desert. The Himalaya mountains create a “rain shadow,” which prevents monsoon clouds from reaching Ladakh and releasing rain.

Many times in Ladakh, I felt I was in Tibet, especially of course when visiting Tibetan Buddhist monasteries. In fact, Ladakh and Tibet are very closely tied both culturally and geographically, and in former times, politically also. Though I have not been to Tibet in China, I imagine that Tibetan culture is better preserved in Ladakh.

I will be writing about three stories I researched while in Ladakh:
1. A profile of a young French woman who is running an ambitious Thangka restoration project and creating a museum at a monastery outside of Leh.
2. A story about a woman who started a cooperative to teach textile skills and provide a livelihood for rural women.
3. An interview with a Buddhist nun who founded a nun’s association to help address the imbalance between opportunities and resources available for monks versus nuns..

After I returned from Ladakh, I relaxed in Delhi for a few days before heading down to Kerala for the Kerala Travel Mart and a wonderful week at Kaiya House in Varkala, Kerala. Kerala is one of my favourite states in India. (Read: Kerala photo essay and guide)

Kaiya House, Varkala Kerala, India, beach, guest house, hotel, India travel

Stunning painting on the lovely roof top lounge of Kaiya House, Varkala, Kerala.

Kaiya House is one of those special places I look for in India — places that hit that sweet spot between basic and luxurious; that are run by caring owners; and that have a special ambience that inspires creativity. Kaiya House, the number 1 guest house in Varkala according to TripAdvisor, does indeed hit the spot.

The “secret sauce” at Kaiya House is the owner/ manager Debra, an energetic and detail-oriented American transplant. I have never experienced a more helpful and caring guest house owner. Debra makes sure all your needs are met and that you receive a thorough orientation.

After a week of relaxing and working in Varkala, I headed back up north to get ready for the Mirabai Expedition.

More on all these trips later, the Ladakh stories, and of course Mirabai Expedition … as soon as I stop moving.

India Travel Recommendations

If it’s here, I am giving it the “Breathedreamgo seal of approval!”

  • Jet Airways – One of India’s top two airlines. (There’s only one other good one, IndiGo.)
  • Kaiya House – Top-rated guest house in a quiet, off-the-cliff part of Varkala, Kerala
  • Thikana – Top-rated boutique guest house in one of South Delhi’s most exclusive neighbourhoods
  • Incredible India: The official website for India Tourism

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50 Responses to My seventh trip to India begins

  1. Tushar October 27, 2014 at 6:46 pm #

    Welcome Welcome Welcome..

  2. Prasad Np October 28, 2014 at 4:19 am #

    Welcome once again… been waiting for this post ever since you tweeted about the trip on arrival on this trip to India. Well according to some 7 is a divine number… 7 seas, 7 colors of rainbow, 7 Continents, …

    Wishing you wonderful travels in India… and may the bad experiences like the Udaipur station be never repeated…
    Prasad Np recently posted..Diwali is a festival of LightsMy Profile

    • Mariellen Ward October 31, 2014 at 1:38 am #

      Thanks Prasad. Seven does seem to be a lucky number, doesn’t it? I hope we finally meet on this trip.

      I think the difficult travel experiences, like getting stuck at the Udaipur train station when my train was cancelled, is par for the course; it’s all part of the experience. India wouldn’t be India without these experiences, and the trick is to learn and grow from them. Seeing everything that happens as a “gift,” or teacher, is a good attitude to have when travelling in India (or elsewhere)!
      Mariellen Ward recently posted..Avoiding the sacred cows in travel writingMy Profile

  3. Sudhir October 28, 2014 at 4:24 am #

    Welcome back to India again Mariellen… 🙂 I am a regular reader of your blog and your blog inspires me to write more like you. waiting for more such beautiful blogs from you. You can also read my blogs on India.Here is the link of my blogs

  4. Phew; I feel tired just reading about all that you are doing/experiencing/seeing. I just picked my Mum up from the airport this afternoon; returning from her 1st trip to India. Lots to hear about over the next few weeks I am sure. I made my 1st trip in March – I am in love and will return. My visit was a 10 day whirl, so much more to enjoy – I will learn lots from your travel. Keep the news coming (when you can)…namaste

    • Mariellen Ward October 31, 2014 at 2:17 am #

      Hi Monique, It seems after only 10 days you picked up the India travel bug! “Once you have felt the dust of India, you will never be free of it” …
      Mariellen Ward recently posted..Getting ready for long term travelMy Profile

  5. Renuka October 28, 2014 at 12:35 pm #

    A nice read as usual. I am happy to know that you are enjoying your time in India (and getting accustomed to the new changes). 🙂 I am looking forward to your Ladakh stories, as it’s high up on my radar. And yes, I hope to meet you in Goa in December.
    Renuka recently posted..The ‘Secret’ LakeMy Profile

    • Mariellen Ward October 31, 2014 at 2:18 am #

      Hi Renuka, Thanks for being such a loyal reader, I really appreciate it. Hope we do get to meet, though I’m not sure about Goa in December after all. The more I think about it, the more I realize it will be crowded and expensive. Another time, another place perhaps!
      Mariellen Ward recently posted..Female solo travel tipsMy Profile

  6. Mariellen Ward October 31, 2014 at 1:33 am #

    “The Vedic concept of wedding includes the couple walking around a holy fire seven times; which indicates their willingness to go through the highs and lows of life with each other. Hence at the end of your seventh journey to India, we the people of India shall declare you spiritually wedded to our ancient and great land.”

    A comment from reader Chetan, who sent it to me by email … and with his permission I am reproducing it here because I am so pleased to receive it.
    Mariellen Ward recently posted..Staying at Canada’s castle hotelsMy Profile

  7. Arun November 3, 2014 at 12:20 am #

    Welcome back, and happy travels!
    Arun recently posted..Travel Photography – Landscape Photography and Efflorescence in Spiti ValleyMy Profile

  8. Renu Singh November 3, 2014 at 5:13 am #

    India will always welcome you from deep heart. Welcome back enjoy while travelling to India.

  9. Pooja Singh November 3, 2014 at 5:19 am #

    Welcome back…..I always wait for your blogs to publish…wonder blogger you are..

  10. Ben November 3, 2014 at 6:03 am #


    Great post. I can totally relate to your comments about how your views have changed. This is my seventh (or eighth, I’ve lost count) trip to India in 2.5 years. I’ve been coming here for 6-12 weeks at a time – mainly for work. It’s definitely been a mixed bag of experiences. Any plans to pass through central India?

    • Mariellen Ward November 7, 2014 at 9:23 am #

      Hi Ben, Yes, a mixed bag of experience is a good description. I would love to visit Madhya Pradesh, maybe one of these days. To be honest, the most challenging thing for me right now is trying to find support from the India travel & tourism industry, and to successfully monetize my blog. If I can achieve these things, it would really help motivate me.
      Mariellen Ward recently posted..Avoiding the sacred cows in travel writingMy Profile

  11. Tdm November 4, 2014 at 8:27 am #

    Come visit us in northeast….any time!

  12. Jelena November 4, 2014 at 5:39 pm #

    I’m in love with your blog <3

  13. Amitesh November 5, 2014 at 6:46 am #

    As I write this, you have inspired me in a great way.Travelling had always been my passion, but for the past sometime I almost lost the intensity, being occupied professionally…thank you for rekindling my interest…
    I would also love to show you our culture closely , by inviting you to a marriage ceremony in my family…As my brother is getting married…Be our family’s ATHITI…As in India we proudly say ATHITI DEVO BHAVA…

  14. paper boat sailor November 5, 2014 at 3:21 pm #

    Delhi is possibly my favourite city of India too, though my relationship with this age-old complex space is often a troubled one. I am very drawn to the city’s pre-Mughal and Mughal quarters and was thrilled to see Ugrasen ki Baoli featured here.
    Hope your seventh journey in India is a worthwhile one. 🙂
    paper boat sailor recently posted..Postcards from Portobello RoadMy Profile

  15. YoS November 6, 2014 at 4:14 am #

    Welcome again, and hope you’ll have a great stay again. 🙂
    I was recently recommended Thikana by someone else as well. Being from Delhi myself, it’s always nice to hear about B&Bs that you can recommend to travelers or friends, apart from the tons of hotels that abound here.
    YoS recently posted..Mailbox Mondays!My Profile

  16. Shreya November 7, 2014 at 5:42 am #

    Happy Wedding to India 🙂 May this union of you & India continue for a long long time. i loved it when you say “Once you have felt the dust of India, you will never be free of it…” Keep the magic going 🙂
    Shreya recently posted..ROOTS SUMMIT INDIA 2014 – Taj Mahal Same Day TourMy Profile

  17. Sree November 9, 2014 at 9:03 am #

    Good Luck on your travels across india, hope you have the best experiences and make the best friends during your travel, do visit mangalore if you get a chance to..

  18. Suze the Luxury Columnist November 9, 2014 at 4:12 pm #

    Such fantastic photos and it must be amazing to visit the monastery

    Suze | LuxuryColumnist
    Suze the Luxury Columnist recently posted..Give me Fever – Best of BritishMy Profile

  19. Amarjit November 9, 2014 at 11:11 pm #

    Hi Mariellen,

    Firstly welcome to India. I like to admit one thing after reading your blog that “You are a gifted blogger”.

    You writing is very impressive and i really feel happy after reading it. I really don’t like traveling but after reading this blog i believe I should go to an adventure. Your experience and spiritual journey in India really inspiring to me. And i wish you will find what you seek this time also like your previous visits to India.

  20. kishor November 10, 2014 at 3:38 am #

    hi mariellene, you have been frequent visitor to India, I have travelled most part of India by road through villages to identify people who are in ecotourism, pls visit our website and we might of some help to you in finding places which are unique and unexplored

  21. Suresh November 10, 2014 at 9:50 am #

    Interesting read:-) I have always noted that more travellers to India cite their journey as life changing than those that travel to their places including other ancient civilizations like China. Perhaps you could give your point of view?

    Formerly from Kerala and now a Canadian resident for the past many years. Would like to establish contact/exchange views upon your return to T.O

  22. Suresh November 10, 2014 at 9:52 am #

    Interesting read:-) I have always noted that more travellers to India cite their journey as life changing than those that travel to other places including other ancient civilizations like China. Perhaps you could give your point of view?

    Formerly from Kerala and now a Canadian resident for the past many years. Would like to establish contact/exchange views upon your return to T.O

  23. Chandramauli Govind November 12, 2014 at 6:14 am #

    Hi Mariellen,

    I visited your blog for the very first time(actually got redirected via Facebook!) and am quite pleased to read your blog. Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 🙂

    I am a Delhi-ite(been there for 10 years) and can relate the love for Delhi, it opens up to you in new ways, every other day! I have recently moved to Pune for another challenging opportunity. If you plan to visit West part of India, I’ll love to hear your experience in person 🙂

    Have a great journey!
    Chandramauli Govind recently posted..InsomniacMy Profile

  24. shreya November 13, 2014 at 6:37 am #

    It was really nice to hear that you have visited INDIA so many times and the places has overwhelmed you as well…Yes, it is true that INDIA is full of surprises with different places to roll around and complete a great tour….I LOVE MY INDIA and it seems you to….Keep traveling and explore more from India to share with us….

  25. Raj Groups November 25, 2014 at 4:49 am #

    nicely put up information,glad you are liking india

  26. Anooj November 26, 2014 at 11:55 pm #

    Nice to hear about your trip Mariellen. Good to hear that u had liked Kerala (my native place). However there are some amazing places that people often miss out in Kerala namely Athirapilly waterfalls (its called the Niagara of India……simply amazing), Ponmudi (stunning hillstation…view from a hillstop u almost feel like touching heaven) , Vagamon (lush valleys, mesmerising waterfalls, pine forests, scented tea gardens and gushing rivulets….that says it all), Wayanad (Vythiri resort (one of india’s best resorts with tree top houses), lakes, waterfalls, islands (kuruva), dams, wildlife sanctuaries), other amazing places (Poovar island, Marari beach (near Kumarakom), Thenmala, Gavi, Parambikulam, Muzhappilangad Drive-in Beach (largest drive-in-beach in Asia, Chithari beach, Nalliyampathy, Silent Valley National Park, Ashtamudi Lake). Hope you have an amazing time…As always keep your blogs coming…its an absorbing read.

  27. akhileshyadav November 29, 2014 at 5:18 am #

    India is one most wonderful place for traveling in the world.In india world wonder things are present.

  28. abdul December 2, 2014 at 6:57 am #

    welcome to india.. I am yet visit all these places… i ve enjoyed your article 🙂

  29. Selma December 7, 2014 at 2:04 pm #

    Seeing posts like this make me excited to lose my India virginity next winter … exploring Latin America for the time being, but can’t wait to get over there!
    Selma recently posted..Top Tourist Attractions In NewtownabbeyMy Profile

  30. Kiva December 9, 2014 at 12:49 am #

    Some good tips there. If you go to Ladakh in September they have an end-of-season festival that is kind of like a cultural best of everything in Ladakh all at one time and based in Leh: mask dances, polo, arts, etc.
    Kiva recently posted..THE MONK’S TALE: Enjoy your slice of happiness while you have itMy Profile

  31. Akansha December 10, 2014 at 4:41 am #

    Great post! This is the first time i have read you and absolutely in love with how you express your love for our Country. The line ‘sultry acrid air of Delhi’ when you step out of the Delhi airport with your luggage made me really nostalgic. I live in Singapore now and I truly, madly love Delhi!!

  32. Paritosh Arya December 21, 2014 at 4:26 am #

    Great read! Dynamic in India change so often that its almost impossible to plan a perfect trip and choose a perfect time to come and visit India. But few things can certainly help minimize the unwanted surprise factor in India. People planning a trip to India can find this helpful.

  33. Tom Davidson-Marx December 27, 2014 at 10:38 am #

    I have been to India sevreal times, but my last trip was eight years ago. I am happy to have found this post as I am getting ready to finally take my wife to introduce her to the marvels and magic of India. I will explore your travel recommendations here!
    Tom Davidson-Marx recently posted..Inner ShelterMy Profile

  34. Tripin February 5, 2015 at 1:54 am #

    Welcome back to India again Mariellen. I have gone through your blog its really nice & informative .India, the name is derived from the Indus river and mother of all Indians. It is one of the most well – known tourist destination in the world. it seems you to….Keep traveling and explore more from India to share with us….your blog inspires me to write more like you.

  35. Aseem Kumar Sharma February 12, 2015 at 11:40 am #

    I have travelled extensively in India & recommend the following as a must

    -Meenakshi temple , Madurai
    -Brihadeshwara Temple ,Thanjawur
    -Pelling , Sikkim for morning view of Kanchendzonga
    -Hrishikesh to Kedarnath
    -Mehrangarh Fort , Jodhpur
    -Pushkar fair , Rajasthan
    – Kanha Tiger reserve

    regards ,



  36. Jennifer Martin March 16, 2016 at 6:49 am #

    Wow, these seems to be amazing places to visit in India. Next month I am going to visit one of them. Last month I have been to Neemrana Fort which is a one day trip from Delhi. I have enjoyed staying at Neemrana Fort and enjoying the traditional architecture. I have also enjoyed various Neemrana Fort activities like Camel riding, Zip lining and vintage car rides.

  37. Vishali Chug August 3, 2016 at 7:32 am #

    This is a very helpful and nice blog It was amazing I really really like it Nice Information. Thanks for sharing.Great post, thanks for sharing .if you want travel in India Please visit

  38. shan September 26, 2016 at 5:35 am #

    Hi… Mariellen Ward it is very interesting blog to read, i am really enjoyed this blog and photos. thanks for giving this photos, if you come again to india, you must come to south india

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