The Taj Mahal: An Arabian fantasy in India

Taj Mahal Agra India

The Taj Mahal. Note the size of the people on the platform.

Seeing the Taj Mahal through child’s eyes

As a child I was obsessed with the 1,001 Tales of the Arabian Nights. I read every story I could find; practised sliding my head back-and-forth, palms together above my head, like an Arabian dancer; and painted murals on my bedroom walls of genies materializing out of bottles and fabulous, turret-topped maharajah palaces. Stories of the “exotic and mysterious east” have always fascinated me, and travelling in India is often, truly, a dream come true for me. But this manifestation of fantasy reached a new level recently when I visited Agra, the Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri, and stayed, as a guest, in the resplendent ITC Mughal Hotel.

The Taj Mahal is everything and more than you imagine. It is one of the few times in life when no matter how much you have heard or read; no matter how many photographs you’ve seen; no matter how much hyperbole you’ve been exposed to: actually standing in front of the Taj Mahal exceeds every expectation you could possibly have by 1,001 miles.

Taj Mahal Agra India

The Taj Mahal at sunset from the other side of the river.

It is the world’s most beautiful building. “A teardrop on the face of eternity,” as Rabindranath Tagore said. Nothing prepares you for the size (enormous), the colour (translucent white), the symmetry (perfect). I have seen it before, six years ago, but when I walked through the gate I was just as flummoxed as the first time. It’s a bit like falling in love. You feel bowled over, and unsure of yourself. You’re not sure which way to look — but you can’t get enough. You try to measure the size of the experience and your feelings, and you can’t. And you try and separate the myth from the reality, and it’s impossible.

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The story behind the building of the Taj Mahal — which is, after all, a mausoleum — is part of the structure, part of the experience. The Mughal emperor of India, Shah Jahan, began building it after the death of his beloved favourite wife Mumtaz. She had just borne him their 14th child (six survived). The statistics about the length of time it took to build, the number of workers, the amount of marble (quarried from Rajasthan) are as remarkable and I will not repeat them here.

Taj Mahal Agra India Princess Diana Photograph

My “Princess Di” moment at the Taj Mahal.

For me, the Taj Mahal is all about the sheer magnificence in an overburdened land: it is located in Utter Pradesh, one of the hottest, poorest and most overpopulated states in India. Around it is extensive grounds, surrounded by a buffer area that is meant to protect the Taj Mahal from smog: no industry and no cars are allowed within several kilometres.

But then, when you get away from the Taj Mahal zone, and enter the city of Agra, you are confronted with the reality of life in U.P. Agra is famously chaotic in a land of chaotic cities, and the infrastructure is a disaster. I always recommend that people visit Agra — don’t let the stories of challenge deter you — but stay somewhere really fabulous, like the ITC Mughal. If you’re going to splash out just once in India, this is the time and this is the place.

Taj Mahal Agra India Hotel

The spa pool at the ITC Mughal Hotel, Agra.

The ITC Mughal is a destination hotel. I was there for four nights / five days and only left for specific site-seeing trips. Otherwise I was very content to wander the grounds, enjoy the spa (Asia’s largest) and the many restaurants, bars and seating areas. The hotel is spread over 35 acres and has a long and winding walking or jogging trail around the gardens; a Taj Mahal Observatory with a charming swing seat; two swimming pools; an evening market and luxurious rooms. But that’s not the whole story.

Staying at the ITC Mughal was like being immersed in my childhood fantasy world. Rich colours interspersed with expanses of cool white marble. Sensuously curving lamps emitting Arabic patterns. Massive settees with plump cushions. Throughout the hotel, every decor detail is inspired by the Mughal era and especially the reign of Akbar, the greatest Mughal Emperor. The massive lobby is called the Akbar Mahal, and the bridges to the two wings are named after his wives, Mariam and Jodhabai. (TIP: Watch the film “Jodhaa Akbar” to get a Bollywood-ized version of this period in history.)

Taj Mahal Agra India - ITC Mughal Hotel suite room

The Mughal Suite bedroom / bath at the ITC Mughal Hotel, Agra.

My suite, in the Mughal Suites wing, was decorated in black to honour the Black Taj Mahal that Shah Jahan planned to build (but never did, because he was imprisoned by his son). ITC Mughal manager Sanjay Sharma took me on a tour of the hotel and showed me detail after detail that was inspired by Mughal art, culture and architecture. I began to see the hotel itself is a work of art. Mr. Sharma’s passion for perfection, and his evident love for this hotel, made me truly appreciate it, like I have never appreciated a hotel before. He invited me to watch the evening ritual, wherein staff members placed candles throughout the lobby to the sounds of chanting. It was enchanting.

Also enchanting, in fact intoxicating, was the Kaya Kalp Spa. The entire spa is also inspired by a fantastic idea of Arabic culture. For me it was a magic carpet ride to bliss. I had a two-hour Pomegranate Treatment that included a scrub, massage and facial, all using pomegranate infused products; and I also used the whirlpool, steam room and sauna several times.

Taj Mahal Agra India : ITC Mughal

Relaxation lounge, Kaya Kalp Spa. Photo courtesy ITC Mughal.

The women’s side of the spa includes an opulent lounge area, with four beds, draped and lit, and surrounding a soothing marble water fountain. After the extreme heat of the sauna and steam, I melted onto one of the beds and drank tea while being mesmerized by the fountain. I felt I had entered my fantasy world completely. Another perfect moment in India.

And all the while, you are in the shadow of the Taj Mahal at the ITC Mughal. One morning, I took my tea to the Observatory, and relaxed alone on the swing seat, while watching the morning sun light up the dome of the Taj Mahal. Flocks of birds flew together in graceful patterns, flashing metallic. The sounds of the city waking up drifted in on the morning breeze. Another Incredible India moment.

Taj Mahal Agra India

The Taj Mahal as seen from ITC Mughal Observatory.

And above and beyond all of this luxury … the ITC Mughal will always be fondly remembered by me as the place where I first met in real life (IRL) my cyber-friend writer Shelley Seale — after at least three years of online friendship only.

Taj Mahal Agra India

Writer Shelley Seale at the Taj Mahal.

Shelley arrived with her mother and a small group of friends at 10 p.m., and I rushed to the lobby bar to meet them. I also went with them to the Taj Mahal the next day, and saw them off in the evening — when they headed back to the U.S.A. Shelley is a beautiful writer and a beautiful person who also loves India. Her book, The Weight of Children, is about the invisible children of India and I highly recommend it: she is as compassionate as she is beautiful and talented.

Finally, one of the best experiences was yet to come. My first visit to Fatehpur Sikri with a wonderful guide, Ajay Narayan Bari. He’s soft-spoken and erudite, and knows Agra inside and out. But that experience and the photos I took of that extraordinary place will have to wait for another blog!

Thank you ITC Mughal for hosting me and giving me the most magical experience of Agra possible.

Taj Mahal Agra India

Arabesque lamps line the entrance to the Kaya Kalp Spa at the ITC Mughal.

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13 Responses to The Taj Mahal: An Arabian fantasy in India

  1. Avanish Maurya December 5, 2012 at 1:43 am #

    Hi Mariellen,

    A beautiful description of Taj…and equally good pictures…Since you are also based in Delhi, hope to meet you someday in any blogger’s meet..


  2. Bus Service Provider in Pune December 8, 2012 at 4:29 am #

    Nice Post. The Taj Mahal is a sign of real Love.

  3. Shalu December 10, 2012 at 4:38 am #

    I personally think that the Taj is much too hyped. When I first saw it, I did not like it at all. I was fed that its something magical but to be honest, I found it extremely uninspiring. The history behind the construction is depressing, that of human misery which is often over looked. But anyhow great structure.
    Shalu recently posted..Drinking water guide in IndiaMy Profile

  4. Jonathan December 17, 2012 at 1:36 am #

    This hotel seems absolutely wonderful and just as worth going to as the Taj Mahal itself. It always strikes me in India how luxury and sheer deprivation can co-exist with little in between the two of them (although the rise of a middle class is starting to change that, thankfully). Cheers!
    Jonathan recently posted..How and Why the West and India Differ So Much According to Devdutt PattanaikMy Profile

  5. Ann December 20, 2012 at 6:00 am #

    Good article on Tajmahal-the epitome of love.

  6. Shubhajit December 23, 2012 at 3:37 pm #

    It’s a literary piece of description of Taj Mahal! I understand when you say how much you see photographs, how many articles you read about Taj etc. still when you see it in front of you, it just invites one reaction ‘Wow!’.

    ITC Mughal, it is one of the finest hotels in India.

    Nice blog and now I am following it (I’ve linked it in my blog and follow your post)

  7. Maharajas Express December 24, 2012 at 5:55 am #

    Tajmahal is a symbol of love. You may visit Taj by Maharajas’ Express – the best luxury train in India.

  8. Karunesh January 17, 2013 at 7:14 am #

    Nice post. The photographs are very good and you have shared interesting information about the Taj Mahal and also about the ITC Mughal Hotel.

  9. sanjay October 13, 2014 at 9:05 am #

    Firstly, Tag Mahal is not “Arabian”. Just because it’s Muslim architecture , does not mean it’s Arabian. In fact, most muslim Indian I know will be angry at the idea of being called Arabian when they are Asian.


    • Mariellen Ward December 4, 2014 at 10:37 am #

      Thanks for letting me know … I was referring more to a style idea than a historical fact. But I appreciate your comment and I certainly don’t mean to offend anyone.
      Mariellen Ward recently posted..Mirabai Expedition 1: Lost in VrindavanMy Profile

    • JP August 29, 2015 at 12:26 pm #

      The architecture is Mughal which is influenced by Persian style and Islamic themes. I also would not describe it as Arabian as that is inaccurate. Otherwise, an enjoyable article.

  10. Maharaja Express November 28, 2016 at 7:37 am #

    Taj Mahal, one of the most beautiful monuments, is one of the wonders of the world.You may visit Taj by Maharaja Express – the best luxury train in travel India.

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