A long walk on a hot day in India
The Kumbh Mela Festival in India
“No,” said the khaki-clad policeman. “You don’t have the right pass.” It took me a moment to grasp that I was not going to be able to join my colleagues on the media platform. The spectacle of hundreds of naga sadhus parading into the centre of Haridwar, India was the pinnacle of the Kumbh Mela, the largest spiritual gathering on earth, and I wanted to see it
That morning, I rose before dawn and walked 13 kilometres into Haridwar with a group from the ashram to take a dip in the Ganges River. It was the most auspicious moment to bathe during the festival, and millions of devotees were streaming into the city to take part.
After bathing, I separating from my ashram group to join my journalism colleagues on the platform. When I was turned away, I was stunned. The sun was climbing in the sky, I didn’t know the route back and the city was completely closed and packed with pilgrims.
Buoyed by the intense devotional energy, I somehow found the winding route back to the ashram. Arriving, I felt exhilarated and realized I would never be the same.
That morning, I discovered the truth and power of ritual. It’s not about the achievement. It’s about how a peak experience can change our idea of who we are and what we are capable of. Which is a lot to get out of a long walk on a hot day in north India.
This post has been entered into the Grantourismo and HomeAway Holiday-Rentals travel blogging competition.


I hope you will be able to write more about the mela. Whatever I have read about it so far is either a journalistic perspective or an observer’s notes, but never a participant’s memoir. It would be nice to read from someone among the pilgrims.
Oh man. How come he didn’t let you through?
Thanks for your comments. It was amazing to be part of something that big. You feel that you are swept along, one very small part of the whole – yet each small part is equally significant. I was frankly afraid to go, but I’m so glad I did.
Michael, he didn’t let me up because, from a spiritual perspective, he was doing his part to make sure I got the experience, and therefore the lessons, I needed to get.
Mariellen
Will you be walking with Swamiji in Colombis this August? I might go there next May.
Take care. Do enjoy reading your blog a lot.
Sorry,… I mean the ashram in Colombia.
Hi Mariellen – thank you so much for your entry and for your kinds words too. I’m so glad you entered and hope the other judges like your entry as much as I do!
Best of luck! Lara
That’s some cultural writing!!
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On the morning of April 14 approximately 10 million people streamed into the sacred town of Haridwar in north India to bathe in the Ganga on the most auspicious day during the 2010 Kumbh Mela. I was one of them. Find out how I found myself alone, and at home, at the world’s largest spiritual gathering.
In Varanasi, where the veil between life and death seems very thin, a boat ride on the river can become a journey to the other side. Come along with me on a boat ride on the Ganges River in India’s oldest, holiest city and pierce the veil.
The Ganges / Ganga River is the Mother of India. The River speaks in many voices as she travels from the high Himalayas to the Bay of Bengal. At the source, her song is joyous, full of the the jubilance of youth, the rush of fresh mountain streams, the sincere chanting of pilgrims and the excitement of the onward journey.
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